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To obviate this potential problem on my two NC Docs (250 & 350) I would usually just put them in gear, back them up against compression, then put the g-box in neutral, push off down the street, hop on and snick it into second when my weight hits the seat. The NC models are so light that push starting is very easy.

It runs!!
New plan is to change oil, clean air filter, check brakes/tires/clutch, and see if I can putt around the neighborhood. Anything I should check before I break something? Are all bevel heads this noisy? Lots of clacking and such from the head area. Any tips on best practice on starting? Should I start at TDC and how do I find it?

Nothing better than getting a bike running!
Thanks for all the help

If you adjust valve clearance it might quiet down a little. While you're adjusting valve clearance, you can check the backlash on the upper bevel gears, which could also be a source of top end noise. Anything beyond that is going to be complicated and expensive.

If you find slack in the gears its often because the bearings for the shaft are shot, so shimming the gears will not solve it. The bearings get damaged by swarf from the cam or rockers that gets carried down with the oil returning.

Ok tried to take the bike out for a spin because the weather has been so warm, but it will only run if its hooked up to the battery charger. I know the battery is crap but does this bike even need a battery to run? IS getting a new known good battery the first step to troubleshooting?

The workshop manual shows that the 350 Sebrings were equipped with a battery/points ignition in the factory. So you definitely need a fully charged and working battery - if your bike wasn't modified ...
And yeah, your last question must be answered positively

cheers Hans

Hi all, reviving this thread with an update. I got the bike running, but cant get the clutch lever to disengage the clutch, so it stalls as soon as I try and kick it into first. Any tips? should I I start pulling the right cover? Adjustment of the clutch pull doesnt do it

thanks all

The clutch plates stick together when the bike has been left sit for a while.
Pull in the clutch lever and kick it through compression a few time until the clutch frees and the kick start lever is free.
Start the engine, warm it up with the clutch lever in to let it free up some more.
Then ride away.
This should prevent it from stalling.
2 of my 450s do this, the other one has kevlar (if I remember correctly) friction plates and is free once the clutch lever is pulled.
If this doesn’t work something else may be wrong.
You can remove the oval adjustment cover and see if the clutch is moving out when the lever is pulled

Graeme

Ok Im not sure I've tried breaking it loose that way, thats a great idea. Which oval cover?

With the delicate kickstart mechanism in the N.C. engines, you run the risk of damaging the ratchet mechanism if you try to kick over a stuck clutch. If it doesn’t let go with little effort, try this: start the engine in neutral, get the bike moving by rolling down a hill or push and hop on. Then pull in the clutch and put it in gear keeping the clutch lever pulled in. Open/ close the throttle while continuing to keep the clutch lever pulled in. The clutch will likely break loose. If it doesn’t, the clutch plates are well and truly glued together and will require disassembly.
Matt