Motoscrubs.com

Hi,

in http://mbvmc.org/restore/ducati/Ducati2.html you might find information about this regulator and how to test it, as well as in http://www.motoscrubs.com/Ducati_Tech/Berliner%2013.jpg. And JimF has prepared a circuit scheme of this ominous regulator here: http://www.motoscrubs.com/Ducati_Electrics/Regulator.gif

Afaik this regulator was never used in one of the 175 models, proven also by the workshop manual.

cheers Hans

Good stuff, Hans - thanks!

Yes, very useful thanks. All printed off and added to the project folder. I had the LH side cover off yesterday to have a look inside and also tried to strip the carb down. Both the float and the slide are well and truly jammed in place by crud, but I'll try giving it a soak in some warm water to start with. Photo of generator attached - I need to read the book to see if I can identify what kind it is - I think there are several.

Seems you have the 3wire/2coil DUCATI alternator, kettering (points/battery) ignition. The associated circuit diagram is in the workshop manual.

From the motoscrubs "tech" page: Some more info about the static regulator: http://www.motoscrubs.com/Ducati_6V_Regulator.htm, and important data about the angular position of the different flywheels: http://www.motoscrubs.com/Ducati_Electrics/Ign_Flywheel.htm

Got the carb apart after soaking in hot water for a couple of days, but managed to chip a piece out of the slide in doing so. I think new slides are available for MB22 carbs, but I was thinking I might change it to a VHB if I can find a suitable one.

I've got a guy lined up to get the dents out of the tank and I did a simple leak test today and it seems OK so far. I chucked a handful of M8 nuts in and shook it about. I got about half a cup of loose rust etc out, but the rest seems a bit resistant.
Having done a bit of reading, it seems there are 2 main ways to tackle rusty tanks, either fill it with vinegar and leave for a good while, or set up for reverse electrolysis with washing soda.
Anyone on here got experience of either?
After that, should I go for a sealing kit? I’m a bit reluctant having heard lots of stories about sealant coming off, and the process of applying it.

Vinegar is a mild acid but left in your gas tank long enough it will etch the tank. Depending upon how thin the base material is, this could lead to pinhole perforations. If you use acids, neutralize the acid with a sodium bicarbonate wash after your tank is clean. Reverse electrolysis won’t etch the tank. A slow, fiddley process with mixed results. Another option is treatments such as Metal Rescue: http://www.workshophero.com/. I’ve used similar products and they’re effective but the solution has limited work life. You could probably clean your tank and many other rusty bits on your 175 before it’s spent. Not keen on sealers but if you have pinholes, you have no alternative but to seal the tank. This has the unfortunate consequence of sealing all the seams in the tank which may continue to rust underneath the sealant.

Thanks, I looked up Metal Rescue and it is available here in UK, although rather expensive! We're away for a few days now so will consider it further and then decide what to do.

Spoke with a representative of WD40 over the weekend. WD40 has a line of motorcycle products including rust remover. Sounded promising if you can find in the U.K. According to the WD40 rep, their product does not have a use life (i.e. remains effective after repeated use/does not deteriorate with age). Metal Rescue information says it has a shelf life of one year once it's been opened.

Just a quick update - I set the tank up for reverse electrolysis a few weeks ago. I clean the anode strips most days and replace the solution every few days. Anode strips keep getting eaten away but the inside of the tank is looking pretty good, although I can still see some deposits at the ends. I'll leave it a bit longer....
Going to make a stand for the engine tomorrow and then will take it out of the frame and have a look inside. I have bought the tools that Nigel said were essential.

I read on another thread that fork legs had the manufacture date stamped on the brake lug so I had a look today - 1961 it seems.