Motoscrubs.com

Hi Ian, here's a link to the set of needles for the D'ellorto PHBL carbs, about the same price as a single genuine one!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2216147292

They are made of alloy, but I've compared the size and profiles carefully against a couple of genuine D'ellorto needles and they appear to be identical as far as I can tell.

The cost makes it worth it for experimentation purposes, though once I've finally arrived at the correct one I'll probably get a matching D'ellorto version as it'll probably be less prone to wear.

The same needles seem to be for sale on any number of Lamberetta sites too.

Here's the link to the D'ellorto carb setup manual too, which is really good at explaining how they work and are set up.

http://www.dellorto.it/en/download-eng/

Hope this is some help to you.

Jason.

Yes , found those and also the various main jet kits available. I really don’t like messing with the needle as the carb has to come off due to lack of space under the tank, not to mention needing 3 hands to compress the spring and remove the cable. And the amount of fuel wasted every time I drain the float bowl. But it does allow me to get rid of the amazing amount of debris that seems to get past the fuel filter.

Strange, unless the 24mm carb is significantly taller than the 22mm version, or your tank is a different shape underneath to mine, I don't have an issue changing a needle and reassembling in under 10 mins?

I too started off thinking I'd have to keep removing the tank to gain access, but quickly found that if you close the fuel tap, remove the line from the carb and drain out the small amount of fuel into a can, you can then loosen the manifold clamp and either wiggle the carb off the stub with everything in situe, resting it upright on a cloth on the top of the crankcases, or just twist it enough to gain access to the bolts on the top cap if you can.

If you're just altering the needle or it's position, there's no need to drain the carb, just remove the top cap, so long as you don't tip it on its side.

I agree that compressing the spring to remove/refit the needle is fiddly, but if you use the middle two fingers of one hand like a fork under the spring and kind of 'gather' it up to clamp against your palm, you can then use the other hand to lift the slide and wiggle the cable free.

In the best tradition of Haynes Manuals (where I used to work as a printer), 'refit is the reversal of removal'

If you do need to change jets, then draining the carb from this point and fitting the jet only adds another 10 mins at most.

You'll find that needle and it's position will have a significant effect on the fuelling and offers far finer adjustment than altering the size of the atomiser alone.

If you're anywhere near Somerset, I'd be happy to come and give you a hand if you like? I know how frustrating this stage in the rebuild is, believe me! Threatened to set fire to the thing more than once

Day off work waiting for the DVLA man to come, so spent the morning trying needles out. I drew the profiles out on graph paper to work out which were richer or leaner and worked through in order. D29 on second notch seems best, with 266 atomiser. Start cold or warm, idles well and pulls up to almost full throttle. Everything I’ve changed has been moving leaner, so have just ordered a set of main jets from 108 down to 90. It has a 110 at the moment.
I’m down to about 15 minutes to swap needle and nip up the lane and back.
DVLA man was here about 10 minutes. All he did was photograph the frame and engine numbers. He said he’d done a 200 Elite yesterday.

Well done Ian, surprising how quick you get at changing needles once you have the technique isn't it?

Let me know what settings you arrive at and what colour the plug turns out once you've been able to get it on the road properly. I'd be interested to compare with what I'm currently running, which although generally Ok, is still a bit too rich. Can't seem to find a weaker combination of needles and jets that give a better all round result so far though.

Got hold of my knock-off main jets today, have spent a couple of hours trying progressively smaller sizes. Original was 110, and each reduction was a bit better until 102, which seemed same as 104. Dropping to 100 brought back a little hesitation at full throttle. On the basis that richer is safer, I’m going to run with 104 for the moment. Overall feels quite a perky little motor but starting to see evidence that it’s not totally oil-tight. Hopefully DVLA will register it soon so I can get out for some proper miles.

Got my V5 and registration number from DVLA today. Just need to get a plate made and put the cylinder head back on and we can hit the open road.

Ian

Congratulations, Ian. Got your timing right as well, with summer approaching

Ciao

Craig

Number plate on, cylinder head repaired and refitted. Short ride yesterday but chickened out of 120 mile club ride today. I think a few more shorter outings to get some confidence in it over next few days. Possibly an MOT at the weekend just to get someone else to check my handiwork.

if you still have a few drips ,this can be from the sprocket area. There is a small machining that allows some oil to escape to be spun off and get to the chain . If the oil level is a bit high you can get leaks from this area and the clutch pushrod .