Electronic ignition

[Madman]

Well in the end I ordered the Sachse system. I was only able to buy the more expensive one as the cheaper on is no longer supplied for 12 volt systems.
It arrived this morning and I have spent a good few hours fitting it to the bike. I wish that I had not bothered spending all that money now, it does not work!
I followed the instructions meticulously, tested that there is voltage getting to the module and tested that the earth to that module is fine, but alas, I cannot get the LED to light so that I can set the timing.
I have now spent an hour trying to phone them, but they are not answering the phone.
Anyone know if there is a way of testing the LED? I don't want to meddle and break it, but I think that LED might be dead.

[ecurbruce]

Hey Madman,
What you really want to know is if the module is triggering your coil, and then if the coil will fire the plug...
Do you have the module wired to the coil yet?
If so, with the ignition on, spin the engine over and see if the plug fires... if so, the module is good, then look into the LED being bad or not. Timing will come after you verify that the module is functioning.
Is this system with or without a battery?

Bruce

[Madman]

Thanks Bruce,
The system is with battery. I have checked everything, even continuity of all the wires.
The cable from the negative side of the coil to terminal 1 is a constant 12 volts out of the control box, even when spinning the ring to simulate the engine turning.
I suspect that the reason that the LED does not light is probably down the pickup not working.
This has been a huge disappointment for me. I am quite surprised that they do not check these components before dispatch, I am sure it would not be too difficult to do. Meanwhile I am off the road till it is sorted.
I have been trying all afternoon to call them but there is no answer.

[Madman]

Managed to get them on the phone this morning. I have carried out some further tests.
Apply 4 volts to the yellow and brown from the pickup and the LED does light.
Ground the wire that goes to terminal one on the box and the plug does spark.
Check coil resistance is between 2 and 5 ohms, mine is 5.
Check supply voltage, 12.6.
I have to send the box back. That will be another couple of weeks without the bike, very disappointing.

[Mike]

I was only able to buy the more expensive one as the cheaper on is no longer supplied for 12 volt systems.

Did they happen to say why? - I put a 12v sasche on my 250nc last year.

[Madman]

They told me that the cheaper 3.10 version works reliably on 6 volts but there have been failures with 12 volts. If you have a 12 volt system then you can only have the more expensive 3.12 version with 10 advance curves. Not sure why I would need 10 different curves, I am not really sure which of them will be best for my fairly standard bike!

[Madman]

Quick update: Sent the control box back to Germany where they tested it and found it to be working fine. They sent it back and I fitted it back to the plug and wiring where it was fitted before and it works.
I don't understand why, but am now happy.
Now I need to sort out which of the advance curves will suit my bike.

[ecurbruce]

Hi Bob T,
When you've had a chance to play with your new ignition , and sort it out, I'd be interested in knowing what ignition curves you tried out, which one you end up using, and why?

Thanks,
Bruce

[Madman]

Hey Bruce,
It was set on 3 from the factory and I only have the need for one of the ten available, but I have run it up to a local cafe and back, a round trip of about 12 kms, and tried the lot. I have left it on 5 at the moment as that seems to feel nice throughout the rev range, but there is so little difference between some of them that they may as well be the same.
I set the static to between 1/2 and 1 degree after TDC and that has made starting as sweet as a nut. I looked at the curve chart and picked picked one that has slightly more advance as the tank is full of 98 octane petrol at the moment. I will probably fill it with 95 octane and try it all again soon.
My engine is a standard Mk3 NC with a VHB carb and no air filter.
Does that help?

[ecurbruce]

Hey Bob,
Thanks, that's all interesting info.
My system runs around 30-32 degrees total advance, I've been thinking of increasing the advance, and that looks like I should be able to increase my range.
Mine is a milder version Monza, may be a little different than your mk3 cam, but I going to try it anyway...

Thanks,
Bruce