dm250 m1s

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boobby
Posts: 21
Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2014 4:47 am

Re: dm250 m1s

Postby boobby » Wed Oct 19, 2016 2:04 pm

well, i think i have decided to go the long expensive route and rebuild this sucker and build a bike around it. The real question though is back to as factory as possible, or do i utilize the Vantech race frame i have hanging up in my shop? a frame/wheels/and little bits im not scared of getting for a factory-ish bike, but tank/seat/tins/headlamp seem like could get real expensive and a mission to obtain

amartina75
Posts: 347
Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:13 am
Location: Cincinnati, OH. USA

Re: dm250 m1s

Postby amartina75 » Wed Oct 19, 2016 4:22 pm

Yes very expensive for sure but you'd end up with a more valuable bike.

My opinion is usually the more original the better, to the point where I'm against restoration if it's not necessary to function or safety only looks.
Not that that should matter to you.

You could always just build the engine and keep an eye out for original parts and decide later.
Good luck with it.
Aaron
1966 250 Scrambler
1970 450 Jupiter

double diamond
Posts: 555
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:20 am

Re: dm250 m1s

Postby double diamond » Wed Oct 19, 2016 5:40 pm

Assembling the engine wouldn’t be especially daunting. You have half of it already and the missing parts aren’t especially rare or costly. However, you’ll never find the original crankshaft with F3 rod. But, as Phil has demonstrated with his M1S, the standard 250 crankshaft fits in the place of the original (I would like to have a looks at Phil’s disassembled original crankshaft to see the differences to accommodate the F3 rod). The other unique parts are the wheels, which, again, you’re unlikely to find originals. But Borrani is in production of replica rims that could be purchased in original sizes and marking (Phil identified the markings on his rims in an earlier post) and there are a number of sources for replica Oldani brakes. Not an inexpensive proposition, but available. The chassis is all standard Mach 1. Some of the chassis parts are common, but there are special parts such as the rearset controls, kickstarter, clip-ons, top triple clamp and all the body parts that would be difficult, if not impossible to find originals. Costly as well. You would likely have to turn to replica parts for some of these. But if you’re determined, it could be done. It would be pretty obvious the finished product is not original, but you could rightly call it a Mach 1S in the “my grandfather’s axe” sense, one of perhaps 25 or so assembled by Ducati.

Buon fortuna!

Matt

Bevel bob
Posts: 1043
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:01 am
Location: Bromley Kent UK.

Re: dm250 m1s

Postby Bevel bob » Wed Oct 19, 2016 6:06 pm

A few weeks ago I berated an old guy who has one and a half Mach 1's in his loft , what is he waiting for??, his old lady to pass them on to the scrap man when he's gone?.I'm going to call round in a few weeks a put a rocket up his -----------!. If he's not up for it I will try to buy them.

bikester250
Posts: 45
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2014 7:49 pm

Re: dm250 m1s

Postby bikester250 » Mon Oct 24, 2016 2:14 pm

Matt,
You asked about how the F3 rod was used in the Mach1S motor.
According to my notes from talking with Malcolme Tunstall about my crank, material was machined off the insides of the flywheels. The F3 rod is 2mm wider than stock so the bearing is 32x39x20 mm. The rollers are a non-standard length 17mm. Everyone I contacted told me new bearings for this configuration were not available. Malcolme told me a stock crank would fit (not surprising given that the cases appear to be standard) and the used crank I put in seems to be working fine.
Regards,
Phil

Octane
Posts: 121
Joined: Fri May 20, 2011 1:36 pm

Re: dm250 m1s

Postby Octane » Sun Oct 30, 2016 6:07 am

This is a great thread!

I'd like to do some M1/SC style upgrades to my Mach 1, and I'm looking at replacing the original steel rims with a set of Borranis as found on the M1/SC. Phil's stated that his are 19"though as opposed to the standard 18". Is this correct? How do they go regarding clearance of the tires and fenders? I know there isn't much clearance on mine at the front. A 18x2.75 Avon wouldn't fit under the fender. But maybe a 19x2.5 would be ok?
Also, what spoke lengths should I be looking for?

I'd also like to have my flywheel drilled and balanced next time I remove it. Can someone give me an idea on hole size and PCD so I can copy the factory drilling?
*Edit* Just found Craig has posted clutch basket drilling PCD info in another thread :D

bikester250
Posts: 45
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2014 7:49 pm

Re: dm250 m1s

Postby bikester250 » Tue Nov 01, 2016 3:02 pm

Octane,
I'm pretty sure that the 19" rims on mine are original. It had road race Avons on it back in 1971 when I bought it.
I had to change the front fender bracket to get enough clearance for the tires that I could find (it's just a single strip that goes over the fender) and I have to be careful when adjusting the fender so it doesn't rub on the tire. Tire is a 90/90/19 Avon Roadrider. Smaller 19" tires from brands that I knew anything about don't seem to be that easy to find in the states.
Phil


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