Carb disassembly

[Adam]

I have a Dellorto ssi 27d that I've been cleaning after it has been sitting for 5+? number of years. I've almost got it done but there are two parts that just wont come apart. (according to diagram...) one is the choke plug bolt head and the other is the slide stop. The choke plug seems to have been over tightened. I've tried to get it to turn by tapping on the wrench. This got me past an earlier sticking bolt. The plug looks like it brass and is deforming instead of turning. The slide stop appears to be connected to the slide. I can loosen the top screws and get the carb top to lift off but the slide stop is holding it on there. The diagrams don't show that this should be happening so I'm reaching out to all with experience here. Both parts are arrowed in the pic in case I got the names wrong.

Let me add that the slide itself is frozen in place. Currently soaking.

Any advice?

Thank you

Adam

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= Adam ...
" The slide stop appears to be connected to the slide. I can loosen the top screws and get the carb top to lift off but the slide stop is holding it on there.
the slide itself is frozen in place. "

____ Your picture shows that it's possible to lift-off the carb's throttle-top far enough out & away from the top-edge of the carb.body's throttle-slide housing-chamber so that the two parts could then possibly be separately slid-aside & unlatched apart from one-another ! _ So while held almost as far apart as seen in your picture,, then simply unlatch the two parts by sliding them oppositely fore & aft about a quarter-inch out of normal alignment, and-then pull them apart.
That part separating-action will have you moving the throttle-top in a J-shaped maneuver (with respect to a stationary carb.body),, so as to then unlatch the slide-stop's nail-head from it's place inside the recessed-notch within the top of the throttle-slide, and thus-then be able to disconnect the throttle-top & stop-nail away-from the stuck throttle-slide & carb.body.



" Any advice? "

____ You may not need to go to such an extensively extreme measure, but you could try refrig.freezing the carb.body for over an hour and-then sink it into a pot of boiling mineral-spirits to shock-loose the throttle-body & slide.


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[Rick]

The head of the rod fits into a keyhole slot in the slide- it can be maddening to get out, but, it's easy compared to releasing stuck slides- the small air slide parallel to the main slide is especially infuriating.

keyhole.jpg

Rick

[Adam]

Thanks Gents

Frustrating is right. I see what you mean about the cables and how they should slide along the keyhole and lift out. While trying to nudge them that direction, something is stopping the slide stop about half way. Is that normal? The throttle cable wont move its way out at all. The slide is stubborn as hell. Tried boiling to no avail. I'm worried that it is stuck with dirt/fine sand due to what I found the gas filter packed with. If I could get the cables off, I could tap it down a bit from the top.

Bob - will shocking the metal risk cracking it?

Thanks again
-Adam

[double diamond]

Adam,
The slide return spring is is preventing the idle adjusting rod is from being removed. See attached pic of the slide/cap assembly with the spring installed. If you can compress the spring against the cap you should be able to remove the idle adjusting rod. If you can remove the needle from the slide and remove the needle jet, you might be able to tap the slide out with a suitable sized drift. I think I’ve accomplished this in the past. The air slide cap is brass. They can be difficult to remove. Try heating the carb in an oven set to 250 F. Have a vise with soft jaws set up to hold the carb. When the carb body is hot, mount in the vise and squirt the cap with an inverted can of computer keyboard compressed air. The discharge from the can is liquid air and is very cold. It will chill the cap and hopefully contract the cap enough that you can remove it if you act quickly. Unfortunately, you’re limited to using an open end wrench since there’s no room to get a socket over the cap, but you knew that. Matt

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= Adam ....
" something is stopping the slide stop about half way. Is that normal? "

____ Well, it's normal only in that the bottom-coil of the (large-type) return-spring must still be left setting-down in-place atop the slide, and-thus blocking the pathway.
Normally, (without the slide being stuck so far down), ya can more easily grab-hold of the upper spring-coils and lift the bottom-coil of the spring up & off-from it's set place atop the slide and-then be able to slide-over the throttle-stop nail-pin/rod far enough to then finish removing it out-from the slide-top "keyhole". _ But in this case (with such a narrow slot-space available between the throttle-top & the throttle-body),, you'd obviously have-to use a rather thin screwdriver-tip (or two) to insert-through/between and fairly patiently try unscrewing and/or lifting the accessible spring-coil so that the spring's base-coil thus-then becomes lifted-up & off-from the top of the slide just high enough to clear-over the raised portion -(rectangular-protrusion) of the slide-top, and-then finish sliding-aside the t.stop-pin over & out of it's keyhole location.
__ I've included a combined-pic.version* below, to better show&tell what's-what.
(* Thanks to the combined efforts of our contributing fellow-members !)



" The slide is stubborn as hell. Tried boiling to no avail. "

____ Simply heating-up the carb.body in hot-water that's then brought-up to a boil, will certainly heat-up the throttle-body from room-temp,, but it rather ought-to be dropped-into mineral-spirits (or a fine penetrating-oil) that's already boiling, so that some lubricant-action can then get in-between. _ And starting-out from a below-freezing body-temp, will help the shock-factor break-loose the stick-grip.
And just because the very first-time didn't work, doesn't mean that successive attempts won't eventually breakdown the spirit of the stubborn grip !



" will shocking the metal risk cracking it? "

____ I've never had such happen (with metals, [just with glass]) ! _ I don't think there's much of any silicone-content within the carb.body alloy, (at-least not as much as most pistons contain and well handle).



" I could tap it down a bit from the top. "

____ While that might indeed break-loose the stick-grip,, when you possibly get to the point of being able to do so, then try to not move the slide down all-the-way to the bottom in the process, (as you sure don't want it to end-up stuck there).


Hopeful-Cheers,
DCT-Bob

[Adam]

SUCCESS!!!

Using baling wire, a screwdriver, no2 pencil, and some oak trim, I was finally able to remove the slide stop, throttle cable and the slide. The wire was able to secure the slide spring while I worked the slide stop out. The top of the diffuser has a ledge around the top that was preventing the slide stop from moving to the edge of its keyhole. After some finagling with the screwdriver, I was able to move that out. The slide was still stuck in place and I was able to tap it down a smidge to see if it would move at all. I had to remove the atomizer holder to get access from the bottom. Didn't have any tools that would span the two notches. After an exhaustive search of my garage, I resorted to the kitchen. I discovered that the handle of our salad forks were the perfect dimensions. What luck! Once that was out, the pencil allowed me to tap out the slide from the bottom. No grit like I thought, just a good build up of hardened gunk.

Thanks to all who pitched in with advice. Your recommendations made for great guidance. I've included a few pics (sorry, they are out of order) of the before/after.

Now for that choke support....


-Adam