New here: questions installing entire kick start

[adammccarty]

Hello all. New here and new to the ducati singles. Currently converting a 350 scrambler racer back to street trim. I purchased as a vintage racer. Previous owner had removed the entire kick start assembly and converted to bump start only.

Having never worked on one of these motors please bare with me. From a brief look at manuals its obvious that I need to split cases to re-install. Hoping for any pointers or steps before I just dive into this.

Assume there is no easy way? What specific tools will be needed? Assume clutch / flywheel puller?

Great resources here, appreciate any advice in advance.

Regards,

[double diamond]

If you’re just going to install the kickstart shaft, you can probably leave the entire right side of the engine intact as well as the transmission and crankshaft. You’ll need a flywheel puller. There is no clutch puller necessary to remove the clutch but you will need a clutch hub holder to loosen the clutch hub nut and the primary gear nut (if you don’t have access to pneumatic tools). Mark the position of the flywheel relative to the crankshaft so you can reinstall in the same position. Be careful with the clutch hub, you may have a cast iron hub and they are delicate. This would be a good opportunity to clean out the sludge trap in the crankshaft. Make sure to account for all the clutch pushrod pins and balls if you remove them. If you do not disassemble the timing cover, don’t let any sludge from the sump drain into the oil pickup in the right case sump. Look for shims/spacers on the shift drum, crankshaft and clutch. If you do end up disassembling the entire lower end, be aware the crankshaft nut is a left hand thread. Record the locations of all the shims you remove. Be careful, use the right tools and if you encounter any snags, inquire on this forum (witness one of our cadre who recently broke a clutch hub because he wasn’t familiar with the peculiarities of the design). Buon avventura!

[DewCatTea-Bob]

____ Pretty-GOOD response-post with relevant points by d.d above ! _ However, being the detailist that I am, I feel the need to add some wording...


[quote= double diamond ...
" you will need a clutch hub holder to loosen the clutch hub nut and the primary gear nut (if you don’t have access to pneumatic tools). "

____ The left-side crankshaft-nut could be fairly-well secured by stuffing a rag between the meshing teeth of the primary-gears, (as well as including the following securing-method)...
By putting the transmission in top-gear and locking-up the drive-sprocket with a (suitably sized) wood-block fitted in place under one of it's teeth, the hub-nut could then be held secured for torquing.



" Mark the position of the flywheel relative to the crankshaft so you can reinstall in the same position. "

____ That notion is a commonly overlooked step which many forget to think-of BEFORE-hand !
However that thoughtful advice is with the presumed-expectation that the rotor-flywheel is STILL-left set just as the factory had timed it !
If somebody-else has already before removed & remounted the mag.rotor without any such concern, then you really don't want to leave it timed at the same (possibly random*) mated-relationship.
(* As many figure it's not a real concern, cuz the battery alone powers the ign.system well enough.)
__ To determine if the mag.rotor is still set as the factory had intended, then the engine should still continue firing at idle with the battery then disconnected.
Otherwise you'd have-to depend-on the mag.rotor's factory-placed timing-mark.



" be aware the crankshaft nut is a left hand thread. "

____ That's only true for just the crankshaft/bevel-nut that's located on the RIGHT-side of the engine ! _ However the opposite crankshaft-nut holding the drive/pinion-gear, is std.RH-threaded.


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob

[adammccarty]

If you’re just going to install the kickstart shaft, you can probably leave the entire right side of the engine intact as well as the transmission and crankshaft. You’ll need a flywheel puller. There is no clutch puller necessary to remove the clutch but you will need a clutch hub holder to loosen the clutch hub nut and the primary gear nut (if you don’t have access to pneumatic tools). Mark the position of the flywheel relative to the crankshaft so you can reinstall in the same position. Be careful with the clutch hub, you may have a cast iron hub and they are delicate. This would be a good opportunity to clean out the sludge trap in the crankshaft. Make sure to account for all the clutch pushrod pins and balls if you remove them. If you do not disassemble the timing cover, don’t let any sludge from the sump drain into the oil pickup in the right case sump. Look for shims/spacers on the shift drum, crankshaft and clutch. If you do end up disassembling the entire lower end, be aware the crankshaft nut is a left hand thread. Record the locations of all the shims you remove. Be careful, use the right tools and if you encounter any snags, inquire on this forum (witness one of our cadre who recently broke a clutch hub because he wasn’t familiar with the peculiarities of the design). Buon avventura!

Such great information, thanks so much for both of your replies. Bike was converted to a total loss system, so no flywheel. I purchased a powerdynamo system as I do not have the original parts. I do have access to pneumatics.

Given that I do have pneumatics should I still purchase a flywheel puller or clutch hub holder? Really like the idea of only having to pull clutch side of case.

Side not, what are recommendations for a carb on a built 350 motor?

Thanks again for all your assistance.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= adammccarty ...
" thanks so much for both of your replies. "

____ But it seems you only saw MY post before I finally finished & signed-off on it
(5-minutes after you submitted your-post).



" I purchased a powerdynamo system "

____ Care to show & tell anything about that ?



" Given that I do have pneumatics should I still purchase a flywheel puller or clutch hub holder? "

____ Probably not. - (And we-all should now realize why.)
____ Do you already happen to have any preexisting pic.views of your mag.rotor-less motor ?



" what are recommendations for a carb on a built 350 motor? "

____ What's your 350's intended main-purpose ?


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[adammccarty]

[quote= adammccarty ...
" thanks so much for both of your replies. "

____ But it seems you only saw MY post before I finally finished & signed-off on it
(5-minutes after you submitted your-post).



" I purchased a powerdynamo system "

____ Care to show & tell anything about that ?



" Given that I do have pneumatics should I still purchase a flywheel puller or clutch hub holder? "

____ Probably not. - (And we-all should now realize why.)
____ Do you already happen to have any preexisting pic.views of your mag.rotor-less motor ?



" what are recommendations for a carb on a built 350 motor? "

____ What's your 350's intended main-purpose ?


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

Hey Bob, thanks for the insight. 350 will be just a street rider. No more racing or track days for her. I can snap a few pictures when I get back into my shop tonight. Heres a link to dynamo. Believe its been discussed here. Have a friend in Denver whos been running on two different 350s with good results.

http://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/systems/ ... 44main.htm

[Nick]

28mm would be good for a street bike.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= adammccarty ...
" 350 will be just a street rider. "

____ Then I'd suggest a stock 29mm-VHB, or-else a 27 or 30mm VHB-carb from a 350-Sprint.
Otherwise a 28 or 30mm-Amal is an easy fit, (but not as nice of a runner).



" Heres a link to dynamo. "

____ I-myself sure can't conceive the value of such, unless ya plan on running with a 100w.headlight (for safer night-riding).
My-own feeling about installing such aftermarket-systems in a Duke, is much akin to the likes of replacing the stock-motor with a Honda-motor. _ The resulted 'bike' no-loner being 'thoroughbred'.
__ Anyhow, if it's not a single-phase setup, then it really doesn't matter if it's output is set in-time with the static-ign.timing.


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob

[adammccarty]

So here's a pic without flywheel / alt. how do I get the gear off? There's several shims behind. Just don't want to do any damage

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= adammccarty ...
" how do I get the gear off? "

____ Once the retaining-nut has been removed, that gear usually just pulls-off by hand,, but it looks-like a std.claw-puller would pull it off alright.


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob