ducati 450 rt wiring

[craneguy]

ok one wire is .9 the other is .2 and between the two is 1.1 i actually stripped a small piece of each wire and cut them open yellow on both right to the silver looking wire

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= craneguy ...
" i agree with you on both wires being the same colour that is why im having issue. "

____ I'm thinking you probably posted this post of yours too-soon, and-thusly missed some of my later-included post-text...
Did you read what I've stated about 'scraping' & inspecting the wire-insulation/rubber's true-color ?



" you posted zeronet.net your email was .com "

____ I've previously found that whether sent to netzero.net OR netzero.com,, it doesn't seem to mater, as I've still received emails sent either way, (at-least sometimes). _ Anyhow, they originally had my e.address at 'netzero.net' !



" i have gone and looked at several new multimeters all are the same as what i have as far as ohm settings "

____ I-myself have always prefered the long-tried&true ANALOG-versions.


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= craneguy ...
" one wire is .9 the other is .2 and between the two is 1.1 "

____ I'm quite sure that those are valid ohm-readings, however the ".2" is somewhat suspect ! ...
__ The wire that reads ".9" to ground, goes to the power-coil that's meant to feed the ign.coil, and it seems to be in normal/healthy-condition,, the other-one however is rather quite low (at less than half of a healthy reading), and-so may be partially burnt-up. ...
It's somewhat fairly common for POs to hastily connect-up the lighting power-coil mistakenly to the ign.system (which is MOSTLY a short-circuit), and that causes the higher-current capacity of that power-coil to overheat,, and after an extended time, the thin insulation-coating on the coil-wire eventually becomes burnt-up and-thus looses some of it's insulating-quality which thusly allows some short-circuiting between neighboring coil-loops which then leads to low resistance-level readings such as you've measured.
__ So if that low-reading is confirmed as really actual and/or you find that THAT power-coil (with the .2-reading) can no-longer fully power-up a suitable headlight, then that power-coil ought-to be replaced or rewound.
By any chance, do you already have the alt.flywheel-rotor removed ? _ If so, can you then see & confirm whether the power-coil in-question shows any signs of being extra dark-brown, (as I've found some lighting-coils to be, after having been left short-circuited) ?


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob

[craneguy]

i do understand what you are saying.i have not removed clutch and flywheel cover as i have no new gasket to put in at this time i have however hooked up the .9 ohm wire to coil , took out spark plug and rolled engine over in gear just by hand rolling back wheel and im getting good spark i did not have the other wire .2 ohm hooked up to anything so just mabe your second wiring diagram is correct there will be no lighting system anyway.omit the one wire.just another question though why do they not hook both together lighting and ignition

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= craneguy ...
" i have not removed clutch and flywheel cover "

____ If you ever do go to remove the alt/mag-rotor,, then be sure to first place your-own timing reference-mark on the rotor-face, to denote it's factory-set relationship-position to the crankshaft !



" hooked up the .9 ohm wire to coil ,
and im getting good spark "

____ Great ! _ That then likely means that if the flywheel-rotor has ever been removed before, then the factory-set rotor-timing wasn't lost.



" i did not have the other wire .2 ohm hooked up to anything "

____ You could try testing it out, by substituting it for the other wire which you've had connected to the ign.system,, just to see if you can also get ign.spark that way too.



" why do they not hook both together lighting and ignition "

____ First, the power-coils would need to be 'matched' (so that one doesn't see the other as a load). _ But much more importantly,
the ign.points would short-out the lights,, and the lights would rob so much power away-from the ign.circuit, that there'd then be no significantly built-up tension to create a spark !
Bottom-line is that they'd then both keep each-other from being able to function !


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= craneguy ...
" i actually stripped a small piece of each wire and cut them open
yellow on both right to the silver looking wire "

____ Were their plug-in terminal-tips already cut-off before you ever saw those wires ?
__ I've since had a look at your picture of those yellow-wires,, and I'm now quite certain that they are-NOT the originals, since they appear to-be too fresh-looking, as their color is-not faded even as they'd be after just 1 to 2 decades of exposure !
Of-course it's not easy to tell for-sure without seeing them & their cable in person,, but if that entire alt.stator-cable is an actual Ducati-item, then I suspect that someone had ordered a new cable and when the wrong*one arrived (* actually made for a n-c.Monza-model), they rather just decided to go-ahead & install it anyhow.
__ So it's a good-thing you got your new meter to get that mess-up properly sorted-out (and know that that pair of yellow-wires aren't also pre-attached to a new n-c.stator as well).
Don't forget to mark the .2-ohm yellow-wire as the wrong-one for the ign.system.


Settled-Cheers,
-Bob

[craneguy]

i will try the .2 ohm wire in place of the .9 and see what happens .there were no plug in type terminals.the yellow wires do look fresh however i have stripped off the outer black insulation which does look somewhat deteriorated and they live up under seat and tank did you get my test email ??? would like to post pics of what it looked like as purchsed

[craneguy]

IMG_1111.JPG

as purchased

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= craneguy ...
" the yellow wires do look fresh "

____ They'll always look that way underneath for at-least 20-years when their black outer-conduit is pealed-off,, however the extended-length of the wires that's always been exposed (outward of the black-rubber cable-conduit), stops looking very fresh after about 10-years. _ So if your alt.stator-cable happened to-be near half as old as an original, then you'd clearly see a notable difference in color-shade between the section-length which you exposed and the original extended length that's already been long exposed !
So does the length-section of the yellow-wires which YOU've exposed, appear notably fresher than the length that was already exposed when you first got the R/T, (or does the freshness seem pretty-much the same throughout) ?



" did you get my test email ??? "

____ My internet access keeps going on & off for hours at a time ! _ So I was only recently able to check,, and yes, I did get it, (and sent a reply).
__ In addition, I've now finally also posted adjusted versions of your other three pix as well, as can now be seen on the previous page.
So you may wish to edit/delete some of your four separate picture-posts accordingly, however as you see fit to do.



" as purchased "

____ Now that's more like what I had previously expected your R/T to look like, as I had assumed that you hadn't had your hands on it long enough to have upgraded it so much as it NOW appears !
So-then that's quite a bit of nicely-done accomplishment which you've managed with it in the past 7-months !
And-so I was considerably off-mark when I previously-before stated "Very-nice find", as it was actually YOU-yourself who has since made it that-way,, and thus before, it was merely just a 'lucky-find' as you found it.
Good-work there !



Hopeful-Cheers,
DCT-Bob

[craneguy]

wires look fresh throughout.will leave pics alone thank you for your infomative help will try and post a pic when it is complete raceday is july 5