Spark quality and coil questions

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= narrow_monza ...
" I do have both stator-coils grounded and only a single wire coming out of each. I thought I needed to rewire it and "un-ground" one of the stator-coils as depicted in my diagram in order to use the Podtronics Rectified/Regulator. "

____ Indeed, if intending to retain the stock-type lighting (with it's grounded-type circuits), then you are correct that an alt.stator power-source needs to be isolated from ground in order to properly use a common-type full-wave rect/reg.unit or even just a bridge-rectifier ! _ However with non-standardized/non-grounded LED.type lighting,, then it wouldn't really matter, since such lighting-circuits can rather be left isolated from ground (with the use of twin-conductor wiring).



" However, if there's a way I can use the stator in its existing configuration (both coils grounded) in a battery-assisted wiring scheme, that would save me the hassle of removing the stator. "

____ If the stock alt.stator wire-leads haven't yet been replaced, then it's recommended that the original wires be replaced because their insulation-coating is expected to go-bad (if not already in a disintegrating state) !
The stock wire-colors should be RED (for lights), and YELLOW for the ign.system. _ What color are the two wires you now have ?
__ If your two wire-leads have already been replaced, (hopefully with the right coloring),, then you could possibly get-by with simple half-wave rectification (using a single power-diode, which is possible with a grounded power-coil), providing that at-least your headlight is a low power-consuming LED.type.
__ There's another wiring-option that I should mention here at this point, which would make use of the normally unused-power (that's otherwise totally-WASTED directly to ground through the ign.points), so that you could THEN power a regular 25 to 35-watt std.headlight-bulb.
If you'd like the related details, then please ask,, but for now, I'll rather continue-onward with responding to just the intended concerns of your post. ...



" OK so it sounds like an even simpler scheme (with a battery and a bridge-rectifier) could work with my existing 2-wire magneto? "

____ Well, a bridge-rectifier could possibly work between one of your wire-leads & 'ground', PROVIDING that you then rather use twin-conductor system-wiring (in place of the standard/regular single-conductor wiring). _ However that non-standard bridge-rect.connection would only make logical sense with non-standardized LED.lights (like Jim used).
Otherwise, a grounded power-coil can only work (within a normal grounded-system), with just a rather simple diode-rectifier, (which only half-wave rectifies, and-thus couldn't fully power a std.headlight).
__ Is it your desire to keep your wiring-system scheme as simple as reasonably possible ?




" Here's a an area I'm unclear about: "

____ MANY others (including those who think they pretty-much fully understand such electrical-stuff), are also fairly-unclear on what's ACTUALLY what, concerning the following having to do with actual alternator-output. ...



" What does the output on each of the single "hot" wires look like out of my magneto? Is it a full 6V sine wave out of each of the stator-coils? "

___ There's MUCH disinformation 'publicized' so as to help keep electrically related facts fairly simply comprehensible to the average-Joe (who doesn't really care to fully comprehend & learn all the actual intricate details anyhow),, so many become confused when learning of related electrical-stuff from the likes of myself (who don't 'fall-in' & also pitch the standard-BS), and-so those uninformed-sorts understandably tend to suspect that those few of us -(such as myself/DCT-Bob) must be the ones who're incorrect, rather than the overwhelmingly common public-consensus, (of whom are actually the-ones who've really been generally misinformed [by the more common public-simplification trend] ).
So you ought rather trust ME when I proclaim that alternators don't really produce any particular amount of actual 'VOLTAGE', (all on their own) !!! _ RATHER, they merely produce just varying amounts of 'power' along-with 'tension', accordingly with RPM ! _ And that will only convert-over to some-amount of voltage & current, depending upon the total resistance-value of the connected circuit !
__ So while it's certainly possible, (though rather difficult) for an alt.power-coil to produce exactly 6-volts WHEN connected to some particular circuit whilst rotating at some particular RPM,, MOST of the time, any voltage-amount OTHER than 6-volts, is actually occurring !! _ Otherwise, there'd never be any need for a regulator-circuit (for whenever the alternator happens to be producing too-much power [during higher RPMs and/or reduced system-load] ).
__ The power-coil that's meant for the ign.system has a disposition of higher tension with less current capability, (compared to the other power-coil that's intended for the lights). _ So when connected to a volt-meter circuit, THAT ign.power-coil's stronger tension should produce a somewhat higher voltage-level (that's totally dependent upon the RPM-level, and-so could possibly reach as high as 70-volts [unless another circuit bleeds-down the tension] ).
__ So in ACTUALITY, there's absolutely nothing actually having to do with '6-volts' (or any-other particular voltage), with either of those two alt.mag power-coils, (without some particular-circuit connected-up) !!
The "6 volt" designation everyone sees publicized in manuals,etc.,, is merely-just a 'RATING' by the factory, who has justified their voltage-rating accordingly with the load-system's particular power-load that their alternator/charging-system is intended to function with.
If there were such an electrical-system as a '3v.system',, then the same alternator could be employed as-is, and just as well be referred-to as a '3-volt' alternator ! _ (It would just-simply reach that tension-level amount with a little less energy/RPM).



" Or is it a half 6V sine wave (since the other end of each of my stator-coils is grounded)? "

____ Whether grounded or not, the resulting-voltage would still remain the very-same regardless, (whatever the voltage-level happens to be) !
And-also the sine-wave output would remain completely whole, regardless,, (unless half-wave rectification is introduced, [which would then cut in-half whatever the happenstance peak-to-peak voltage of the sine-wave happens to actually be] ) !


Enlightening-Cheers,
DCT-Bob

[narrow_monza]

[quote= narrow_monza ...
" I do have both stator-coils grounded and only a single wire coming out of each. I thought I needed to rewire it and "un-ground" one of the stator-coils as depicted in my diagram in order to use the Podtronics Rectified/Regulator. "

____ Indeed, if intending to retain the stock-type lighting (with it's grounded circuits), then you are correct that an alt.stator power-source needs to be isolated from ground in order to properly use a common-type rect/reg.unit or even just a bridge-rectifier ! _ However with non-grounded LED.type lighting,, then it wouldn't really matter, since such lighting-circuits can be left isolated from ground (with the use of twin-conductor wiring).



" However, if there's a way I can use the stator in its existing configuration (both coils grounded) in a battery-assisted wiring scheme, that would save me the hassle of removing the stator. "

____ If the stock alt.stator wire-leads haven't yet been replaced, then it's recommended that the original wires be replaced because their insulation-coating is expected to go-bad (if not already in a disintegrating state) !
The stock wire-colors should be RED (for lights), and YELLOW for the ign.system. _ What color are the two wires you now have ?

****** The leads have been replaced and I suspect that that's when one end of the lighting stator coil was grounded. I measured the resistance to ground at each of the 2 leads and I got 0.4 ohms to ground on one and 0.8 ohms to ground on the other.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote="narrow_monza ...
" The leads have been replaced and I suspect that that's when one end of the lighting stator coil was grounded. "

____ Your assumption that a third-wire was then eliminated, is fairly-likely since such 2-wire mag.stators are quite rare as they were only factory-installed on just the early Motocross & Mark-III models.
However the later mag.stators (which had a 3rd-wire added to accommodate a make-shift brake-light circuit), had a WHITE-wire added to the IGNITION power-coil, (not the "lighting" power-coil) ! _ The power-coil that's intended for the lights has ALWAYS been grounded !
So you must really mean that the 3rd.wire-lead has been removed rather from the power-coil that's meant for the ign.system (and brake-light circuit), and that-coil then rather directly-grounded,instead.
That same power-coil (missing it's 2nd.wire-lead) should have a greater number of loop-turns of a thinner wire-gauge ! _ Can you confirm that ?



" I measured the resistance to ground at each of the 2 leads and I got 0.4 ohms to ground on one and 0.8 ohms to ground on the other. "

____ The power-coil with the "0.8" reading, is the one intended for the ign.system.
The other-one with the "0.4" is a slight-bit low however, so it could possibly be that someone once had it connected-up to the ign.points-circuit, which then may've overheated it. _ If that has ever occurred, then the insulation-coating on that power-coil would look dark-brown & smell burnt.


Hopeful-Cheers,
DCT-Bob

PS - I've since adjusted & posted another (better appearing) version of your posted-pic, as now seen below.
Since neither p.coil looks burnt, then your "0.4" ohm-reading must actually be alright.

[narrow_monza]

Hi Bob,

Let me see if I'm more or less confused than I previously thought
This is what I gather so far (or at least I think I do):

1) My current stator scheme ( 2 power coils , each with one end grounded to chassis) is still usable provided I use a proper wiring/load scheme.
2) The stator power coil with the higher resistance should be the one powering the ignition circuit.
3) The output from each stator power coil will vary greatly with RPM and might not even be close to 6V AC when measured unloaded.
4) I can use the power coil with the lower resistance to power a headlight, tail light, and brake light, provided they are low-power.
5) I can use a simple diode rather than a full bridge rectifier to drive the lighting circuit.
6) The lighting circuit can include a battery (thought I'm not clear there's enough energy to keep it charged)
7) There a way to harvest some of the wasted energy from the ignition circuit to power lights/horn.

Can you propose a wiring scheme that can work for me? I'd rather not rewire one of the stator power coils to add a lead but if it's the most beneficial approach, I'll go ahead and do it.

PS: Thanks for enhancing my photo.

Cheers

-Adrian

[DewCatTea-Bob]

____ Somehow I must've missed seeing that you posted your post when you did, I guess I must've failed to successfully refresh this thread-page when I last tried later yesterday.



[quote= narrow_monza ...
" This is what I gather so far
1) My current stator scheme ( 2 power coils , each with one end grounded to chassis) is still usable provided I use a proper wiring/load scheme. "

____ Yes, that's certainly correct,, although your possible non-stock electrical-system options are more limited.



" 2) The stator power coil with the higher resistance should be the one powering the ignition circuit. "

____ Correct, because it's output is MOSTLY short-circuited through the ign.points and it's lower current carrying capacity (due-to the thinner gauge of it's longer winding) helps prevent it from overheating and becoming burned-up (like the other power-coil is more apt to do under such short-circuited conditions).
Also it's higher produced tension should result with a stronger high-tension ign.spark.



" 3) The output from each stator power coil will vary greatly with RPM and might not even be close to 6V AC when measured unloaded. "

____ That's quite TRUE ! _ In-fact it's not even very easy to coax near exactly 6-volts under MOST conditions ! ...
At lower-RPMs, you'd need a relatively small load (like a tail-light) connected-up, and at higher-RPMs, you'd then need a relatively large load (like a headlight), in order to keep the resulting voltage-level anywhere near a 6-volt level,, (assuming without any 6v.regulating-circuit also connected [to maintain near 6-volts] ).



" 4) I can use the power coil with the lower resistance to power a headlight, tail light, and brake light, provided they are low-power. "

____ Yes but, "they" wouldn't ALL have-to be "low-power"...
That power-coil is expected handle near 35-watts of load, so stock/std.type 30/25w.headlight & 5w.taillight bulbs (together alone) should of-course work well enough,, but the brake-light would have to be low-power/LED.type if powered-up at the same time the headlight is on ! _ Otherwise, with activation of a std.brake-light -(18w), not-only would the brake-light not light-up, but also a std.headlight would then dim-out !
Conversely,, if all three lights were too-low of a low-power type, then they'd be at easier risk of burn-out due-to excessive voltage build-up during revs above 4k-RPM.
So bottom-line here, is that the connected-load really ought-to be fairly 'matched' to the power-coil's capability.
__ (If that power-coil's AC.power were to rather be rectified so that a battery could then be included within the lighting-circuit, then the response to your #4-statement would be considerably different. _ But your statement doesn't clearly reflect any such certain bias at all, and-so I really can't stray-around too-much with hopes of possibly hitting the intended-nail in the dark.)



" 5) I can use a simple diode rather than a full bridge rectifier to drive the lighting circuit. "

____ Not really, cuz in no case would a "simple" diode be trustworthy,, you'd rather need a 'power-diode', (for half-wave rectification, which only allows just HALF of the available power).
__ Next, the answer really depends on your chosen "lighting circuit" ! ...
Only using just half of the power (alone), would barely light-up the stock 25w.headlight, (but even along-with a battery, the battery would soon discharge) !
However with all LED.type lighting, that reduced amount of power ought-to be more than sufficient to satisfy all your loads, (except the ign.circuit of-course).
____ Don't forget that if you employ non-standardized/(non grounded) LED.lighting (like Jim did), then you can still full-wave rectify your grounded power-coil, providing that you rather use twin-conductor/(non grounded) wiring to the LED.bulbs !



" 6) The lighting circuit can include a battery (thought I'm not clear there's enough energy to keep it charged) "

____ Again, that really depends on your chosen lighting-circuit ! ...
Addition of a battery to the circuit is-not a real-big concern, as it helps nearly as much as it hurts.
__ To keep the battery charged along-with retaining the stock lights, then you'd HAVE-to go with full-wave rectification ! _ However (as previously indicated),, with all LED-type lights, half-wave rectification would (even more easily *) sufficiently keep the battery charged. - (* Compared to full-wave & stock-lighting.)



" 7) There a way to harvest some of the wasted energy from the ignition circuit to power lights/horn. "

____ Not exactly ! ...
The maximum power-output of the entire alternator is-not sufficient to fully power a std.horn ! _ Only a battery could possibly do that.
__ However there's indeed divertable power available from the ign.power-coil (that's normally wasted), which could rather be used for something-or-other (but not sufficient for solely powering a horn or a std.headlight) !
All that's needed to harvest some of the wasted-power, is a couple of power-diodes to separate the negative & positive power-pulses (so that BOTH don't all have-to get wasted) !
__ I'll gladly provide more details about this option, if you choose to go-there.


____ To help avoid confusion (from having taken-in all the above varied info at once and-then confusing any of it together), try to keep in mind that since you haven't yet made any single/particular electrical-scheme clearly the-one that all your statements may possibly be solely concerned with,, that I then couldn't assume exactly what you were thinking-of when you composed each of your statements, and-so I thus naturally responded to each individual statement with independent-bias (along-with some straying-off to help cover any possible related-tangents of concern).
So if any of my various statement-responses seem to conflict with one-another or even appear somewhat contradictory at all, then you should now realize why such misinterpretation might've occurred.



" Can you propose a wiring scheme that can work for me? "

____ Certainly ! _ As I've been meaning to get-around to suggesting a particular scheme-option, (which I've already made mention of, in my previous-post).
__ You didn't reply as to whether you wish to keep your chosen electrical-scheme as simple as reasonably possible, but let's assume that you do. _ In that case,, the scheme-option I'd first suggest, would be as follows...
__ Let the power-coil for the lights directly AC.power merely-JUST a std.type headlight (rated between 30 & 40 watts), (which you could possibly leave un-switched & permanently connected).
And next,, besides letting the ign.power-coil power the ign.system as it's meant-to,
also install a (3-buck) bridge-block to divert the otherwise wasted power to rather charge a battery which will then power EVERYTHING-else ! _ You'd leave the taillight connected so that it's always on whenever your key-switch is turned-on, (which will help balance the battery charging-current during high-RPM running).
With this rather clever scheme,, you'd not-only have no-need for any low-power/LED.lights, but-also your battery would always get well charged for powering the brake-light & horn as well !
__ Ducati really should've thought to employ this rather efficient scheme-setup,, but it's somewhat outside-of-the-box, and I-myself may be the only one who's ever thought of it. - (As I've needed similar schemes for n-c.Mark-three models [to improve lighting], and many n-c.Scrambler models [to make them more city-worthy & street-legal] ).
__ So what do you think, is this an option you may consider choosing ? _ If so, I'll then give you all the related details.
____ Don't forget that there's still many other scheme options to consider ! _ For-instance if you prefer to have your headlight on-line with the same battery-fed circuit as the taillight,
only slight changes would have to be addressed.



" I'd rather not rewire one of the stator power coils to add a lead but if it's the most beneficial approach, I'll go ahead and do it. "

____ It would not be worth going to the extra trouble only to add just one-more wire-lead (unless you were a stickler for remaining totally stock).
Rather, if going to that extra-degree,, a PAIR of extra wire-leads ought-to be added, (one for each power-coil), so that both power-coils can be isolated from ground, and then ANY system-configuration could be chosen & wired-up externally at any time (without ever having-to tear-into the motor for that again). _ And that way, there'd then be NO alt.power/wiring-configuration that couldn't be possibly taken advantage of (whenever desired) !
__ This optional step is only as important as your desire to be able to choose the best electrical-system option (that most suitably fits YOUR optional needs) whenever you wish.
So bottom-line is, it's up-to YOU !


____ If there's been any particular wording I've used that you wish to have elaborated-on,, then within your next reply-post, try highlighting just that wording & click-on the 'Quote' button, and then type your related concern to the right-side of the : [ /quote] .



" Thanks for enhancing my photo. "

____ So you still recognized it then !?
Anyhow, you're welcome. _ I sort-of enjoyed doing-so anyway, as I'm still learning how to use the new -(to me) digital-pic.software I more-recently installed on my PC.


Hopeful-Cheers,
DCT*Bob
(* Now twice edited.)

[narrow_monza]

Hello Bob,

I was on hiatus for about 6 weeks due to a broken ankle. I'm back on my feet and eager to pick up where I left off.
I like your suggested wiring scheme (specially since it is compatible with my grounded stator coils) but need you to clarify a few things. Let me first refer to your suggestion:

__Let the power-coil for the lights directly AC.power merely-JUST a std.type headlight (rated between 30 & 40 watts), (which you could possibly leave un-switched & permanently connected).
And next,, besides letting the ign.power-coil power the ign.system as it's meant-to,
also install a (3-buck) bridge-block to divert the otherwise wasted power to rather charge a battery which will then power EVERYTHING-else ! _ You'd leave the taillight connected so that it's always on whenever your key-switch is turned-on, (which will help balance the battery charging-current during high-RPM running).
With this rather clever scheme,, you'd not-only have no-need for any low-power/LED.lights, but-also your battery would always get well charged for powering the brake-light & horn as well !

+++ So the lights power-coil would be dedicated to powering a single load - a standard type headlight. That's pretty straightforward, no confusion here.

+++ The ignition power-coil would drive the points/coil/spark-plug circuit and would also include a bridge-block driving a battery/taillight+brakelight+horn circuit.

+++ Can you send me a drawing that depicts this portion of the circuit? By "bridge-block", do you mean a 4-diode bridge rectifier? How would this be wired to the ignition system circuit?

Thanks

-Adrian

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= narrow_monza ...
" I'm back on my feet and eager to pick up where I left off. "

____ Well it's about time !
Actually it's rather a bit late,, as I've now forgotten what-all else I was prepared to further explain, if you ever chose to go this particular (and quite sensible !) route. _ I guess you should've followed-up on this sooner.
I'll try to include some of whatever comes-back to me, later.



" I like your suggested wiring scheme (specially since it is compatible with my grounded stator coils) "

____ And indeed you ought-to, as that's mainly why I had particularly suggested it as a most practical electrical-scheme option.



" but need you to clarify a few things. "

____ Indeed so,, as I had expected to do-so, of-course !




" So the lights power-coil would be dedicated to powering a single load - a standard type headlight. That's pretty straightforward, "

____ Indeed so, as it can't get any more straight-forward than that !
__ The power-coil meant solely for the main-lights is able to run a 30w.headlight and a 3w.taillight. _ So by having it power-up just the headlight only, the headlight should be kept relatively bright even at lower RPMs.




" The ignition power-coil would drive the points/coil/spark-plug circuit "

____ Yes,, the ign.circuit would STILL be driven by a single pulse of DC.power, just the same as stock ! _ (And-also, the ign.coil would run slightly cooler.)



" and would also include a bridge-block driving a battery/taillight+brakelight+horn circuit. "

____ Well not exactly, as the ign.power-coil doesn't produce enough power to supply sufficient electrical-juice to all those loads at once ! ...
The b.block's contained diodes would allow separation of the positive & negative half-cycles of the AC.wave, thus allowing the otherwise wasted AC.half-waves to rather be saved & diverted towards charging of a std.type chargeable battery. _ However that saved/diverted power-juice would-not be strong enough (all on it's own) to fully power-up any of the system-loads other than the taillight,, and-so any of it's leftover excess-juice becoming accumulated within the storage-battery, will need to-be relied-on in order to fully power-up the brake-light & horn (as well as any-other such rather high-current demanding temp.load) !
__ This type of battery-charging technique is somewhat similar to the method/system which Ducati came-up with for their 160-M.Jr models,, except that this more-efficient method is considerably more powerful because it taps-into & salvages the otherwise vastly wasted power-juice of the ign.power-coil, instead of robbing some power from the overtaxed* lighting power-coil
(* when the lights are running) !




" Can you send me a drawing that depicts this portion of the circuit? "

____ I'm sure the like has already been posted before,, but it's so simple, that you probably really don't need any such schematic-diagram.
__ I'll be glad to direct you with each & every wiring-circuit that you wish to have addressed, in whatever order you wish to complete them.
Exactly how you chose to wire-up your battery & key-switch, will be the most complicated aspect of your fairly simple electrical-system.



" By "bridge-block", do you mean a 4-diode bridge rectifier? "

____ Yes, of-course.
If you do a search for that, you'll then find many references to such, (and possibly one having to-do with the same system now being discussed here) !
Here's a link to just one (which I hastily happened to pick-out, since it happened to include a link to a w.site for RadioShack's offerings of such bridge-blocks)... viewtopic.php?f=3&t=749&p=5343&hilit=bridge-block#p5341
Elsewhere, you ought-to be able to find a rather common '200v/25-amp* b.block' for about 3-bucks.
(* You really don't need a b.block-unit with such strong specifications,, however because that's such a commonly produced version, that it makes that particular b-b.unit considerably cheaper than similar units with the weaker specs which are actually required for the job - [which would be merely-just '100v/6amp'].)



" How would this be wired to the ignition system circuit? "

____ Good-question, as it certainly would-not be connected-up in the same usual standard-manor, as such a bridge-rectifier is meant to-be !
Instead, (even-though only just two of the bridge-block's diodes are all that's actually required for the intended job), the single wire-lead from the ign.power-coil shall rather be connected-up to BOTH of the block's AC.inputs ! - (This obvious unconventional external bridge-connection usually screws with the minds of your ordinary tech.types, who are usually quick to declare that the person who connected it up, didn't know what the-F they were doing ! _ However when any such conventionally-trained tech.type disagrees with me, then THEY are the ones who are wrong !)
The reason for this rather-odd connection, is to simply take full advantage of all-four diodes and make life easy-peasy for them and-thus further increase the reliability of it's circuit. - (Ya paid for both diode-pairs, so why-not get your money's-worth !?)
__ Next,, the bridge-block's negative-output goes to the ign.circuit, (which also seems rather unconventional as well).
And it's positive-output goes directly to the battery, (which is a rather normal-appearing circuit).
That's all there is to wiring-up a b.block, (in this case, so-far).
__ I've included a picture of a common ordinary 'bridge-block' unit, as seen down-below.
Please keep us informed of whether you acquire such a unit which you find suitable for your project.

____ Please ask about whatever aspect you wish to know about next,
(before this thread gets forgotten-about again).


Duke-Cheers,
DCT-Bob

[DewCatTea-Bob]

Please keep us informed of whether you acquire such a unit which you find suitable for your project.

I just picked up a bridge-block to include in your suggested wiring scheme

____ Okay then,, sometime today, I'll include some more related info (which may or may-not be of pertinent use to you).
__ Something that probably ought-to be discussed is whether your motor's flywheel/mag.rotor is suitably phased to properly work as intended.
So we next need to realize if your mag.rotor is already off or expected to-be dismounted, (as it's assumed that it's already been removed before, sometime since it was originally mounted by the factory).
So what-all do you know about this matter so-far ?
__ Also, have you yet ever tried to check for ign.spark (with the stock ign.wiring-setup) ?


Tillater,
-Bob

[narrow_monza]

I just picked up a bridge-block to include in your suggested wiring scheme
____ Okay then,, sometime today, I'll include some more related info (which may or may-not be of pertinent use to you).
__ Something that probably ought-to be discussed is whether your motor's flywheel/mag.rotor is suitably phased to properly work as intended.
So we next need to realize if your mag.rotor is already off or expected to-be dismounted, (as it's assumed that it's already been removed before, sometime since it was originally mounted by the factory).
So what-all do you know about this matter so-far ?

I have taken the flywheel off before. I know that it has a mark about 32°-36° before TDC.
Attached are 2 photos of the flywheel.

__ Also, have you yet ever tried to check for ign.spark (with the stock ign.wiring-setup) ?

I have kicked it a few times with the the ignition circuit directly connected to the ignition power coil without a battery and saw a blue spark that seemed healthy.

Thanks
Adrian

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= narrow_monza ...
" I have taken the flywheel off before. I know that it has a mark about 32°-36° before TDC. "

____ Those factory timing-marks are usually placed good enough to go with but, sometimes they are not placed in the optimum-location.

__ Also, have you yet ever tried to check for ign.spark (with the stock ign.wiring-setup) ?

" I have kicked it a few times with the the ignition circuit directly connected to the ignition power coil without a battery "

____ First-off - just to be sure... DON'T EVER connect-up "a battery" in any manor to this type of ign.power-coil circuit !
__ Anyhow ...


" I have kicked it a few times with the the ignition circuit directly connected to the ignition power coil
and saw a blue spark that seemed healthy. "

____ Okay, GOOD ! ... Then that means we know that everything normally involved is already quite well-enough with the regular operation of the stock ign.circuit. _ And if that's indeed still the way you now have everything currently set-up, presently,, then-next we're ready to continue-onward & check if your mag.rotor's present phase-setting happens to already be set as intended (so as to power the ign.system with your bridge-block's neg.output).
__ So, (assuming that your ign.circuit is still set up & working), next you need to retest for ign.spark with the bridge-block inserted in it's place within the entire ign.circuit. _ Because if you then no-longer get ign.spark (once the intended rectifier has been inserted into the circuit), then we'd know that your mag.rotor's present phase-setting happens to not be phased to work along-with our intended negative-ground battery-circuit.
__ There's two simple methods to deal with such a 50/50 happen-stance/chance circumstance ! ... Normally, the most-difficult method is to re-phase the mag.rotor (by 90-degrees) on the crankshaft.
This is why I've asked about the present installation status of your mag.rotor.
So can you please confirm how such things are now currently standing (in regards to things brought-up in this post) ?


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob