flynbulldog wrote:I'd also like opinions on a procedure to get it running the first time...
What a great find! You are clearly knowledgeable about singles, but if you want to bounce some ideas off us, here goes. If it has been lying up for a long time, you risk metal on metal contact and accelerated wear if you start it up after lying in one position for perhaps decades. If you really want to start it up without overhauling it, might I suggest you remove the timing and primary covers, and the valve and top bevel covers and squirt engine oil onto as many moving parts you can reach. When you take off the covers, you will immediately see how much corrosion and sludge is present (or not, as the case may be), which you can clean carefully. God knows what the oil will look like when you drain the sump. Turn it over slowly and carefully with the plug out to check if it rotates smoothly and quietly through the gears - having dropped a bit of light oil into the bore first. The clutch may need to be freed out and you may have to remove the plates en bloc to separate them. Drop some oil into the oil pump through the suction orifice and turn the pump to check if it rotates smoothly and you will also see if oil is coming out from the feeds to the head and the crankshaft bush. Squirt some oil into the big end and check if it is coming out through the oil ways in the primary drive pinion. Check the valve clearances and check that the shaft nuts are not loose.
If all seems OK, with fresh oil and the timing and primary covers on, but the valve and bevel covers still off, kick it over until oil flows out into the cambox, and if the camshaft has a jet at the bevel end, through that jet onto the bevel gears. If you can get a spark and the carb is clean, then start it up and run it until the oil is warm, then drain to remove as much old crap as possible and re-fill. With a single this good and original, you want to minimise metal on metal contact and crap circulating in unfiltered oil. If it has compression - happy days! If not, you may have to lift the top end to free the rings and then you might as well inspect the head while it's off and check for play in the big end. There is a risk that the rollers have rusted against the crankpin and rod and the surfaces may be pitted. There is no way of knowing for sure unless you split the crank.
Once you run it, you will hear if any bearings are shot, you will see if it is burning oil, and you will notice when it develops good compression again. I hope it works out for you. You have a nice machine.
Dave