160 shifting problems

[10gener]

dear sirs, greetings,been inactive for quite sometime,due to hard hitting typhoons beating the phil,the 16o project was shelved for a while,but now that summer's here,resumed working on the bike,finally got it running ! i used a Lifan 62mm piston set,rebored the cylinder,and fabricated a bronze bush for the conrods small end,also i fitted a 22mm chinese made "keihin" carb with" engineering plastic " adaptor(the dellorto UBS22 is beyond repair),problem is cant start using the kick starter, whenever the kick starter lever goes down the engine sprocket turns pulling or dragging the rear wheel,also causing intermittent sparks,seems it cant turn a full revolution,thats why it fires only when push started!(issue is oil is leaking from under even though,i used 3bond adhesive on the gaskets and re tightened all the bolts,i came to the conclusion that maybe the deep cuts on the cases sides,caused by screw driver or some other prying tools to separate the cases caused them(by old mechanics of yore!) so i resurfaced the cases,and used a 2mm thick gasket used on diesel engines,to compensate for the shaved off material,do you think it was a mistake,also i cant get it to shift from second gear to third and fourth(only from first to second),i replaced the gear selector fork with a good used one from a friend in uk,hoping to solve the shifting problems but to no avail,gentlemen please help,my new password here on the forum is" boggled",given by sir Jim,because i told him i have some mind boggling questions to post!!cheers and thanks gener from the philippines
p.s.i rode the 160 yesterday going around our place and its FAST,even on 2nd gear only!tricycle drivers looked in awe,asks what is that!

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= 10gener ...
" problem is cant start using the kick starter, whenever the kick starter lever goes down the engine sprocket turns pulling or dragging the rear wheel,
also i cant get it to shift from second gear to third and fourth(only from first to second), "

____ Both of these problems are likely caused by the very-same underlying issue - (transmission & shifter-box miss-phasing)...
__ The rear-wheel is forced to turn along-with the activation of the kick-start foot-pedal because the internal-transmission is-not in the real neutral-position, (and Duc.single-motors can't be started with the clutch hand-lever pulled-in [like other motors can be]).
__ And the reason for why you can't find the higher gears above 2nd, is because you probably don't have the shifter-box installed 'in time' -(or rather more sensibly, properly 'in phase') with the motor's internal transmission's shifter-drum gear-selector.
So you should check whether or not I'm actually correct, by removing the right-rear motor-case cover (with shifter-box), and THEN make-sure that it's gear-setting is shifted ALL-the-way down to 1st.gear.
Then likewise, also make-sure that the motor's internal gear-shifter selector-drum is also set in it's-own 1st.gear-position. _ Ya do that by turning the nose-tip (of the internal selector-drum's protruding shaft) counter-clockwise as far as it can possibly turn, (which should then position the flat-tip of that shaft-nose towards a 10 & 4 o'clock orientation).
At this point, BOTH the motor AND the shifter-box should now finally be 'in time' together with each-other and properly set for the very-SAME gear-setting -(1st.gear) !
__ For easiest installation of the shifter-box motor-cover back into it's place on the motor,
the shifter-box should be set to it's neutral-position (with it's shaft-nose slot positioned near a 12 & 6 o'clock orientation),, and likewise, the motor's corresponding shaft-nose should also be set to the neutral-position with it's flat-tip also orientated in the same 12 & 6 o'clock position.
__ Now once you have the shifter-box motor-cover reinstalled properly -(IN-phase with one-another, [rather instead of remaining connected-together 180-degrees out-of-phase] ),, these two problems you've been concerned with, ought-to be gone.
____ If there's anything above which you don't clearly understand, then please ask for clarification.


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[10gener]

thank you very much sir bob,i never thought of that,synchronization!regards gener

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote="10gener ...
" synchronization!"

____ Right... the shifter-box's female-shaft needs to be in PROPER-phase with the transmission's male-shaft, so that both mechanisms are then mated-together rather in 'synchronized' agreement.
__ Whenever the shifter-box / right-rear motor-cover is to be removed (from it's place on the motor-case), the complete motor really ought-to first be shifted into the neutral-position, before-hand. _ However it often happens that that's not always done & followed-through by a previous owner,, and when his motor basket-case is then sold to the next owner (who has no idea that transmission & shifter synchronization is an issue which warrants attention), then there's a possible 50/50-chance that the shifter-box motor-cover can get reinstalled 180-out-of-sync.
__ I've encountered such oversight a number of times, (so I gather that it happens rather often),, and most mere bike-rider types assume that the transmission-itself is in need of repair, or-else many mechanic-types figure that there's something wrong with the shifter-box mechanism. _ But most often it's really just a matter of resynchronization.
This same transmission/shifting-issue was one of the very-first motor mechanical-fixes which I had ever performed on a Ducati-motorcycle (back in spring,1967),, however at the time, I really didn't realize exactly how I had solved the actual problem, (as unbeknownst to me,, rather than actually fixing anything within the shifter-box, I simply must've inadvertently resynchronized it back onto the motor-trans.).



____ Next, concerning your oil-leak...

(issue is oil is leaking from under even though,i used 3bond adhesive on the gaskets and re tightened all the bolts,i came to the conclusion that maybe the deep cuts on the cases sides,caused by screw driver or some other prying tools to separate the cases caused them
so i resurfaced the cases,and used a 2mm thick gasket used on diesel engines,to compensate for the shaved off material,do you think it was a mistake,

__ You probably think that your oil-leak comes from the place where you think it does, because you've seen the oil actually dripping off-from one or two of the lower case-bosses (for the 6mm crankcase-screws)... right ?
Well before suspecting the leak's source being from the crankcase-seam,, you should first wipe-off all the oil that's down-underneath there, and then keep riding your Duke for short distances and rechecking until you can trace the oil-leak all the way back to it's real source. ...
The 160-motor has a straight-through crankcase breather-hole located above the drive-sprocket, and if you don't turn-off your petcocks (when engine isn't running), then fuel leaks down into the crankcase and thusly raises it's sump-level, and-thus more easily becomes expelled out-through that breather-hole, where the oil then runs-down to the bottom of the motor-case and to exactly where you then no-doubt see it dripping-off at.
So I suggest checking your oil for fuel contamination and also make-sure that the sump-level is-not too high.


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob