NC Front Wheel Bearing Removal?

[DucRedux]

I'm struggling with the correct way to remove the right (speedometer side) front wheel bearing on my narrow case 7-fin hub. The left side 6202 bearing was rather easily removed with a blind bearing puller which uses a collet to withdraw the bearing, leaving the opposite right bearing free to be apparently driven out from the inside once the distance piece is removed. The right bearing is however resisting. The right side of the hub houses the crown gear for the speedometer drive and is pressed on. The right wheel bearing sits within the the crown gear, also within what appears to be a retaining ring, possibly also a press fit. The diameter of the hub opening on the right is a shade under 35mm, at perhaps 34.7mm, measuring slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the bearing. How do I get this bearing out without a mangled result? Do I need to pull the crown gear and ring off? I don't see the solution. I can fabricate a screw press to extract the bearing, but am wondering whether that 0.3 mm diameter difference is a cause for concern?

[Rick]

There isn't a retaining ring for the bearing, at least not on my hubs.

speedo drive.jpg

If you're looking at the exploded parts page, it's a little deceiving, part number 1124/2 is 1 piece steel, but it goes onto the hub the other way around. The gear, the smaller collar with the Veglia stamping, and the larger collar behind it are all 1 piece.

7 fin hub parts sm.jpg

Part number 1162/2 is an aluminum ring that fits into the outer plate and locates the plate onto the steel ring pressed into the hub.
I'd expect that the steel gear/collar would make heating the hub to make the bearing looser a waste of time- the steel collar will probably constrain the aluminum- if it seems so tight that it might gall and make a mess if you just muscle it out you'll have to cut the bearing races- not a fun job, but I've had to do it in engines more than once.
Rick

[DucRedux]

Thank you, Rick. The picture of the hub was extremely helpful - I had mistaken bright hub end alloy as a steel retaining ring on the right side.

The bearing is out having been removed minutes ago with an inexpensive, bench fabricated screw press. I used a 1/2 inch D x 4 inch L bolt and heavy washer on the inside of the hub as the "piston". The "receiver" on the outside catching the bearing was 1 1/4 inch MPT black pipe bushing. The internal diameter of the bushing measured 37 mm (larger than the bearing) and with a wall diameter of 43 mm at the face. The wall diameter size meant that it mounted fully and firmly on the hub rather than on the crown gear when strain was applied. The receiver bushing was previously filed flat to ensure a true mating surface. Appropriate heavy washers and a nut closed the assembly on the receiver side. Quite a bit of torque was needed to press out the bearing and a 1/2 inch socket drive and breaker bar were used in combination with a large hand spanner.

I plan to use the screw press in reverse to install the new bearings.

(The equivalent metric nut-bolt assortments for the screw press would be 12 to 14 mm, with washers sized accordingly for the nearest sized receiver. )