Page 1 of 6
clutch cable question
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 3:59 am
by narrow_monza
While adjusting the clutch pressure plate, I tried to operate it (while is it was too tight) and I heard a loud snap inside the cable selector cover.
First I thought the cable snapped. But when I took the cover off and noticed the clutch cable was a frayed so I think he cable-end slipped (it's the screw-on type, not soldered).
(See photo)
clutch cable.JPG
The cable seems too short to cut the frayed part out.
Should I just replace the cable with an after market one? Is there a way to increase the leverage for the clutch cable?
Thanks
-Adrian
Re: clutch cable question
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 4:36 am
by Bevel bob
Hi Adrian,The cable and fixing looks pretty normal to me, for security I put an additional nipple on mine plus a lockwire to restrict the arm if the cable/nipple lets go,otherwise you can loose the short pushrod.It looks though you may have the clutch center adjuster too far in, the arm and cable should make an angle of 90 degrees with the clutch fully pulled. Don't use the bike without the lockwasher securing the sprocket nut!!. What handlebar levers do you have?,this can make the clutch very heavy if wrong ratio.
Re: clutch cable question
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 5:35 am
by narrow_monza
Hi Bob,
When I took the photo, I had removed the content of the clutch basket for inspection, so the push rod had nothing to push against.
I have some sort of aftermarket clip-ons on the bike.
Regarding the clutch plate, do I tighten the spring bolts all the way in? So all the adjustment is done using the center adjuster and cable/lever?
On your setup, where do you tie the lockwire to?
Thanks
_Adrian
Re: clutch cable question
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 9:09 am
by Ventodue
narrow_monza wrote:Regarding the clutch plate, do I tighten the spring bolts all the way in?
Yes, always.
narrow_monza wrote:So all the adjustment is done using the center adjuster and cable/lever?
The main thing you need to adjust for is cable stretch. This is done at the bar. As for the centre adjuster, this should be set once, after installation, to allow for minor discrepancies in the linkage - and then left. Anything else, and there's something wrong elsewhere.
HTH
Craig
Re: clutch cable question
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 3:35 pm
by machten
I'm surprised you'd see any need to increase the leverage for the clutch lever, although I see you say it is not stock levers. All I can say is that I can pull the clutch easily with two fingers on my 250 M3d, my 450 M3 and my 175 Sport and there is no clutch slippage on any. Is this possibly a ridged clutch hub causing the problem?
Kev
Re: clutch cable question
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 3:58 pm
by Eldert
a widecase clutch arm is longer then a narrowcase item . lots of people make a slot in the case and fit a widecase arm to a narrowcase to reduce the force needed to pull the clutch
Eldert
Re: clutch cable question
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 5:19 pm
by narrow_monza
Thanks for all the replies.
Before disassembly, the clutch was operating fine (although pretty stiff compared to modern bikes).
After re-assembly, I decided to play with the adjustment, and that's when things were never the same.
Either something went wrong went I put everything back together, or its a matter of finding the right adjustment.
I might explore the option of fitting a wide case arm for extra leverage.
-Adrian
Re: clutch cable question
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 8:42 pm
by JimF
I have to admit I am aligned with Machten on this. The clutch pull should be an easy pull. If it's a hard pull this is a signal that something is wrong.
Does the cable slide effortlessly in the sheath? Once the cable sheath is routed does the cable still move easily?
The cable pulls the lever under the cover against the resistance of the springs in the clutch basket. The transference of that force is through two rods and a ball bearing between them. That rod assembly should also move effortlessly if the cable is detached and the basket adjustment screw is off.
Everything should move freely until the clutch basket is put into the equation. Then the leverage the lever provides is more than enough to depress the combined resistance of the springs easily.
Jim
Re: clutch cable question
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 10:29 pm
by narrow_monza
I will run a few tests with the clutch removed to make sure there is no resistance to the cable or push rods.
Will report back on my findings.
Thanks
Adrian
Re: clutch cable question
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 11:50 pm
by Nick
To adjust the center nut, first slacken the cable adjuster at the handlebar, then turn the center screw in until it contacts the push rod, then turn it out about a half-turn. In other words, when the clutch is disengaged you want a small amount of play between the center screw and the pushrod (otherwise, bad things can happen). You may have to relocate the cable end clamp if it has slipped or if the adjustment can't be made as described above.
If the clutch lever is hard to pull, something's wrong-- bad cable, poor cable routing, incorrect lever ratio, incorrect ratio at clutch actuating arm.