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Part of the install process with the Powerdynamo system that I am getting involves removing the clutch plates and basket. Would there be any benefit in throwing in a Surflex at the same time? The case would already be off and it would beat having to do it later on.

" The case would already be off and it would beat having to do it later on. "

____ Seems you've answered your own question!?
__ BTW, I surely wouldn't recommend spending so much $$$ & work, without first having somebody else confirm the pros and reviewed any cons, of such a stsyem !


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

My question is more about if there is any advantage to the Surflex over the stock clutch. If the stock friction discs and plates are not worn badly, is it still worth replacing with the Surflex.

I read something somewhere about the stock plates being thin and prone to bending.

" My question is more about if there is any advantage to the Surflex over the stock clutch. If the stock friction discs and plates are not worn badly, is it still worth replacing with the Surflex. "

____ Right... I don't know, maybe then for racing.
As I see it, ANY clutch that doesn't slip, is a clutch that doesn't slip! _ So then, what's the real advantage then,, unless it's plates are actually better at their job by enough to then allow the use of lighter springs?


" I read something somewhere about the stock plates being thin and prone to bending. "

____ I can confirm that the stock metal-plates CAN get somewhat warped -(bowl-shaped), but I really don't think that they're "prone" to that, under normal-riding use.


____ A side-note tip... When-ever ya have the primary-cover off, it's good to go-ahead and also remove & rotate all the plates, being sure to at least flip-over the inner-most friction-disk so that it's previously unused surface is then next placed outer-most, so as to then be faced against the pressure-plate's surface. _ And of course then also place the worst-worn friction-disk surface at all-the-way to the very back-inside, where it'll be of no use anyhow !
As doing that rotation-job should then get a bit more work-life out of the set !


DUCATIly,
-Bob

the best modification for a clutch is ( for racing and street ) to replace the thin 1 mm plain clucht plates with thicker ones

the thin original ones do get worped and then your clutch wont release all the way and start creaping at a traffic light
or with a push start on a racer the piston is already at TDC before you release the clutch

by using thicker plates you have to go from the original 13 plates ( 6 plain and 7 friction ) back to 11 plates
( 5 plain and 6 friction ) believe me its works like a charm

i get my thicker plain plates from Lacey Engineering in the UK . he has a very easy to use webstore

Eldert

Eldert wrote:the best modification for a clutch is ( for racing and street ) to replace the thin 1 mm plain clucht plates with thicker ones

the thin original ones do get worped and then your clutch wont release all the way and start creaping at a traffic light
or with a push start on a racer the piston is already at TDC before you release the clutch

by using thicker plates you have to go from the original 13 plates ( 6 plain and 7 friction ) back to 11 plates
( 5 plain and 6 friction ) believe me its works like a charm

i get my thicker plain plates from Lacey Engineering in the UK . he has a very easy to use webstore

Eldert

Good to know. I have purchased a few things from Lacey Engineering. I will get some new plates on the way.