Automatic Advance Orientation

[blaat!]

So my dots are all lined up. The workshop manual says when assembling the automatic advance "The cam lobe must be up and toward the right". The images below show the two possible locations for the automatic advance when all the dots are lined up, however neither looks like "up and toward the right" to me. Anybody know which one is correct in the images below?

IMAG0245.jpg

IMAG0246.jpg

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" So my dots are all lined up. "

____ That then means that the piston should be at TDC and the power-stroke is at it's starting-point, and-so thus-then the breaker-points should have just-priorly been separated by the breaker-points cam-lobe's lift-ramp.


" The workshop manual says when assembling the automatic advance "The cam lobe must be up and toward the right".
however neither looks like "up and toward the right" to me "

____ It's understandable that their chosen wording could leave a reader unsure, since the cam-lobe itself is rather too great in duration to be very obvious. _ So perhaps they should've also mentioned that the proper position would leave the cam's (more obvious) 'valley' facing the lower-right,, or better-yet, they instead should've simply stated that the lift-ramp (or 'breaker-ramp') of the cam-lobe should be located on the right-side,,
(as is seen in your lower pic).


" The images below show the two possible locations for the automatic advance when all the dots are lined up, "

____ When the breaker/lift-ramp of the cam-lobe has been locked-in to the WRONG orientation, (as seen in your top pic),, then that would have the points opening & causing the ign.spark to occur near the valve-overlap TDC (when the piston is about to pull-in a fresh-charge of fuel & air mix).


DUCATIly,
-Bob

[blaat!]

Thanks Bob. That helps a lot.

On a similar note... Anybody know what color the wire coming off the points should be? The one I removed was white, but looked like a replacement.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" Anybody know what color the wire coming off the points should be? "

____ It's black in color, however it's not the common-type of electrical-wire of which it's insulation-coating is rubber-plastic,, but rather, it's insulation-material was the more rare type that's a kind of woven cloth-material, (so as to avoid any possibility of melting).
____ I recall back-when I got my first Scr.Duke, it's stock-ign.wire had become rather fraid-up & ugly, so I made the mistake of replacing it with a new piece of common-type black-wire (instead of ordering a stock-replacement), which worked just fine... until one time when I was riding through a sparsely traveled narrow 1-track trail in a wooded-area and came upon some tall weeds which I chose to run-through (rather than try to turn-around & go-back the same way I'd come),, and somehow, a stick of a branch (or something the like) must have gotten caught-on & dislodged the wire & pressed it up-against the exhaust-pipe, which led to it's insulation getting melted and it's conductor-strands becoming shorted-out, thus-then killing my engine's ignition, (and leaving me having to man-handle my Duke & push it out to a clearing where I could then find-out what the problem actually was - [which was that the wire had actually melted-onto & became adhered-STUCK onto the ex.pipe, and had to be PULLED-loose] ).
__ To keep that possible occurrence from ever being able to happen again, I replaced my ign.wire with a length of coaxial-type speaker-wire (which was pretty-much like the stock-wire except that it had a second/separate (sheath-wire) conductor woven-over the insulator-jacket/coating of the inner conductor-wire, and of-course with another insulator-jacket/coating over the outer-conductor sheath-wire.
That type of coaxial-wire/cable is of-course naturally a bit thicker (by about double that of the stock-wire's thickness),, (and to keep it nicely secured & routed in place along the stock-pathway between it's two end-destinations, I chose to employ cable-clips which were originally intended for clamping-down control-cables against the frame-tubes of Schwinn-bicycles).
Of-course I used the inner conductor-wire for the normal/standard-ign.function, however rather than simply let the outer-conductor/sheath-wire go to waste, (other than for it's intended main-function, as merely a heat-shield),, I unraveled the sheath-wire's woven-strands at both ends, and connected it's upper-end to the ign.coil-bracket, and connected it's lower-end to the points/condenser-plate (under it's upper hold-down screw-head [for that plate] ).
That (non-stock) motor-case to frame electrical-connection performs a useful function by surely completing the ignition-circuit without having to rely solely on the standard ground-circuit (which the ign.circuit normally has to depend on) through the motor-mounts.
This particular wire replacement-job has ever-since been a recommendation which I've always advised to anyone wishing to seriously vamp-up their Duke's electrical-system. _ As after-all, ya really shouldn't expect nicely/well painted motor-mountings to easily pass sufficient electrical-current (THROUGH the paint [solely, if the clutch-cable breaks] ) !


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob