New Wiring Harness Design

[Teckhardt]

I have been watching this new thread and also noticed that Techardt has placed newer posts, so either he has somehow overlooked Bob's question or hasn't received the headlamp shell he found on ebay yet.

Not ignoring Bob... Still putting it all together.

" Is that headlamp also a wide-case model-type part too? _ Or is it from a narrow-case model?
The wide-case shell-buckets have an added hole in their left-side for a regular-type key-switch -(for ign.system). _ Let us know if you'll be using that stock 3-terminal key-switch.)

Pretty sure its a N/C shell. It was kinda banged up so I spent some time tapping out all the dents. Some time and a body hammer made it look pretty good.

It does not have a key switch or headlight function switch in it. I am not planning on using either anyway. I am going to use a simple toggle on the bottom of the shell to switch between off/low/high. It should make more sense once I can put some parts together. I hope to work on it some this weekend and will post up some pics later.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" Pretty sure its a N/C shell.
It does not have a key switch or headlight function switch in it. I am not planning on using either anyway. I am going to use a simple toggle on the bottom of the shell to switch between off/low/high. "

____ So I gather that you're going to use a toggle-switch on the underneath/bottom-side of the head-light shell-bucket, for the ignition? _ Cuz that'd be a very strange spot for the Hi/Lo-switch!
How many toggle-switches do you plan to use & where?
What about using some of the stock 450SCR parts, for their jobs?
__ What ya planning for a tail-light? - (450s always destroy their stock tail-light brackets!)


Tillater,
-Bob

[Teckhardt]

So I gather that you're going to use a toggle-switch on the underneath/bottom-side of the head-light shell-bucket, for the ignition?

The ignition "switch" is going to be hidden under the seat. A simple on/off toggle.

What ya planning for a tail-light? - (450s always destroy their stock tail-light brackets!)

My tail light bracket is in great shape. Plan on using it again for now. The tail light is another story. The stock one was replaced with a cheapo plastic snap together piece. I would like to replace it with the correct CEV 9313 but that money is gonna be spent on other things for now. I did find a Guzzi page that lists a copy of the CEV part that has a metal body. Its made by Truck-Lite and runs about $8.

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/ ... cement.htm

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" The ignition "switch" is going to be hidden under the seat. A simple on/off toggle. "

____ It's begining to seem like you're not going to be needing much of a wire-harness at all !


" My tail light bracket is in great shape. Plan on using it again for now. "

____ Well I guess that's okay if you don't plan on riding the 450 much over 1000-miles.
That the stock bracket is still in good shape, indicates that it's either not the original, or your 450 has less than 3000 easy-going miles on it!
If it were mine, I sure wouldn't let the 450-shaker have any chance to start cracking it up into pieces, (or any other such expensive part)! _ Stock parts such as that are best saved for Show-DUKEs!
If you're really intent on using it on anything bigger than a 250, be sure to use some rubber pieces between where it mounts!


" I would like to replace it with the correct CEV 9313 but that money is gonna be spent on other things for now. I did find a Guzzi page that lists a copy of the CEV part that has a metal body. Its made by Truck-Lite and runs about $8. "

____ Very good & SMART find!!
I always say,, why the heck use any of the original (& expensive!- junk) type nonDUCATI-made parts, when ya can get & substitute cheap look-a-likes for the intended job ?! - (On 'riders', [not show-bikes of course].)


____ Still wondering why you don't seem to be going to use the stock Hi/Lo handlebar-switch!?


Fun-Cheers,
-Bob

[Teckhardt]

It's begining to seem like you're not going to be needing much of a wire-harness at all !

You are right. The more I work on the "harness" the more it is turning into a couple of wires.

Well I guess that's okay if you don't plan on riding the 450 much over 1000-miles.
That the stock bracket is still in good shape, indicates that it's either not the original, or your 450 has less than 3000 easy-going miles on it!
If it were mine, I sure wouldn't let the 450-shaker have any chance to start cracking it up into pieces, (or any other such expensive part)! _ Stock parts such as that are best saved for Show-DUKEs!
If you're really intent on using it on anything bigger than a 250, be sure to use some rubber pieces between where it mounts!

Good to know. I may look for something else to use.

Still wondering why you don't seem to be going to use the stock Hi/Lo handlebar-switch!?

Don't want any extra "stuff" hangin on the bars. A low/off/hi switch will allow me to be legal with a headlight and also have it off for starting.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" A low/off/hi switch will allow me to be legal with a headlight and also have it off for starting. "

____ An On/Off/On type toggle-switch isn't a great choice since it's not a 'Make-Before-Break' -circuit switch.
Here's an idea for you to consider... I suggest that you make a plate that's much like the tack-holder bracket which DesmoDog has on his 160, (except, for on the left-side fork-leg).
On such a bracket-plate, you can mount several On/Off-toggles - one for the low-beam & one for the high - (that way you could have both beams on together at once, if you so choose!). _ Also a third toggle for the lights-on/off, and another for an ign.kill-switch, and perhaps a momentary-switch for the horn.
__ I'd never do such a simple set-up on any DUKE of mine, but, considering the excessive value of DUKE headlamp-shells these days, I would not want to drill so many holes into one!
This is an easy job! _ Give it some thought, and then tell us what you think you'll do.


FunCheers,
-Bob

[Teckhardt]

An On/Off/On type toggle-switch isn't a great choice since it's not a 'Make-Before-Break' -circuit switch.

You mean because you cannot go from low beam to high beam without going off first? My intention was not to use it like a dip switch. More of a set it and forget it. Its not a done deal yet, I will put some more thought on that one.

[Teckhardt]

I'd never do such a simple set-up on any DUKE of mine

I appreciate that most people won't care for my minimalist approach.

considering the excessive value of DUKE headlamp-shells these days, I would not want to drill so many holes into one!

That is one of the main reasons I did not modify my stock shell. I found one one fleabay that was dented and unloved.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" You mean because you cannot go from low beam to high beam without going off first? "

____ Yes, that type of toggle-switch -(with a center-off position) is most definately considered to be a Break-before-Make -circuit switch.
Good Hi/Lo-switches will always make a connection of both circuits momentarily just before completely swapping circuit connections! _ That way ya don't go with a briefly dim light for a precious-monent while the alternate filament fully heats-up.


" I appreciate that most people won't care for my minimalist approach. "

____ Actually, I do appreciate it in a way... I just would not do that on any 'keeper'!


" That is one of the main reasons I did not modify my stock shell. I found one one fleabay that was dented and unloved. "

____ Well now that you've made it more lovable, I'd suggest putting it back on eBay for a likely profit, and find yourself something cheap, (just as you found for a tail-light), and then drill such with all the holes you'll need, instead.
__ To get by with one less toggle-unit, you could use one unit for the tail-light & low-beam, and another just for turning-on the high-beam for when-ever needed. - (Running both high & low beams together at the same time is okay, so long as you don't run them both for very long at low-RPM. _ [That would also be an unwasteful way to get by without a V-regulator, as well.] )
__ BTW, were you planning to continue the use of the stock rectifier-box (that's located under the seat & above the battery)?


Good-Cheers,
-Bob

[Teckhardt]

Lots still to ponder. Nothing is set in stone yet.