Heavily butchered 350 scrambler

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Dostoy320
Posts: 12
Joined: Mon May 14, 2012 11:38 pm

Re: Heavily butchered 350 scrambler

Postby Dostoy320 » Wed May 16, 2012 7:18 pm

Where is the frame number on these Ducatis? I think I've seen photos of a tag on the headtube, but I don't think mine has one or it is missing. Sounds like MN requires a frame number to re-title....

blaat!
Posts: 252
Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2011 4:31 pm
Location: Massachusetts

Re: Heavily butchered 350 scrambler

Postby blaat! » Wed May 16, 2012 7:31 pm

The frame number is probably still on the tips of your stamping tools... you might need to use a hammer to see them :lol:

JimF
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Re: Heavily butchered 350 scrambler

Postby JimF » Wed May 16, 2012 7:38 pm

How close are you to Rochester?

If you are willing to pay for some help, I have heard that there is a shop there that specializes in old Ducatis:

Ducati Wheels Unlimited
5410 Highway 52 S
Rochester, MN 55904-6300

Dostoy320
Posts: 12
Joined: Mon May 14, 2012 11:38 pm

Re: Heavily butchered 350 scrambler

Postby Dostoy320 » Wed May 16, 2012 7:44 pm

blaat: Haha. I had to read that more than once to get it - guess I'm a bit slow today.

JimF: I am about an hour north of Rochester. Thanks for the resource. I'll check those guys out.

JimF
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Re: Heavily butchered 350 scrambler

Postby JimF » Wed May 16, 2012 8:17 pm

Blatt is correct - having frame numbers is kind of rare. My Mach 1 has a frame number as does a 450 frame I have, but I have a 250 with no frame number and that bike's Illinois title bears the engine serial number as the VIN.

The foil tags were put on upon entry into the US by the Berliner importers. In fact, if you don't want to hammer a series of meaningless numbers into your frame you can buy a reproduction foil tag. You could lightly stamp a blank thin foil tag instead and glue it to the front of the steering tube and call it done. That would be easier and cleaner that stamping the frame.

Jim

blaat!
Posts: 252
Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2011 4:31 pm
Location: Massachusetts

Re: Heavily butchered 350 scrambler

Postby blaat! » Wed May 16, 2012 8:55 pm

Check with your state's salvage title unit, they may be able to offer some guidance for getting it re-titled. I suspect much persistence will be required on your part.

Dostoy320
Posts: 12
Joined: Mon May 14, 2012 11:38 pm

Re: Heavily butchered 350 scrambler

Postby Dostoy320 » Mon Nov 13, 2017 4:03 pm

Wow, I can't believe it's been 5 years since I started this thread. It's crazy how fast time goes by...

Yesterday I drove down to my dad's place and pulled the Ducati out of the spot in the barn I had stashed it 5 years ago. I finally have some shop space and some other motos to actually ride, so I'd like to do something with this old Ducati.

I'd like to make it streetable, but I'm on the fence as to whether this frame is a reasonable starting point. The rear is hacked off, there is some really gnarly welding for foot pegs and rear brake, and the downtube has a slight bend in it. I can weld (and grind), so maybe it's salvageable?

And this is a narrow case frame, right?

The wheels are filthy but they seem to be in decent shape otherwise. The engine kicks over and "ran when parked" 20+ years ago... The forks are seized and slightly bent. The date stamp on the forks is '63.

I think I might start by trying to the engine running. Anything I should take care to do before starting it after so many years?

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double diamond
Posts: 555
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:20 am

Re: Heavily butchered 350 scrambler

Postby double diamond » Mon Nov 13, 2017 7:08 pm

You have a wide case engine, but the frame is narrow case. Your frame appears to have been modified for hill climbing. Engine moved forward (hence the bend in the downtube) and the rear motor mounts extended forward. It’s quite a piece of American folk engineering. Unless you want to preserve it as such, you’re better off starting with another frame. As far as getting the engine running, I would expect the oil in it is a thick tar-like goo. If you intend to proceed without any disassembly, put a space heater under the sump and leave it there for a while to heat the oil so it will all drain out. The hex on the oil filter/drain is probably mangled but try to remove it without further damage so you can re-install it. Remove the bevel cover on the head and pour fresh oil on the upper bevel gears. This will drain down and lubricate the upper and lower bevel bearings and gears. Tip the bike on its left side and pour more oil on the cam gear. This will drain through the cam bearing and the two holes in the head that vent the cam cavity. Half a quart of oil should do. Install the bevel cover before you stand the bike upright. You could lubricate the cam by removing the valve covers but this risks destroying the valve cover gaskets. If you choose to remove the valve covers, might as well check valve clearance. If you really want to be nice to your motor, remove the crankshaft end inspection cap on the clutch cover. In the end of the crank, there is a set screw that blocks the end of the oil galley. Remove this screw and pump oil in this galley. This will lubricate the connecting rod big end bearing. Reassemble everything, fill the sump with oil and tip the bike on its left and right side. This will hopefully get some oil on the main and transmission bearings, timing gears and primary gears.

You’ll likely have to clean the carb. The carb on your 350 looks like an early Honda XL250 or XL350 carb, probably early-mid 1970’s vintage. You can get parts for it from Sudco. Unless the tank/petcock you have is clean you should use a remote fuel tank to get it running. When it was running, did it require a battery to power the ignition? Clean the points and adjust the point gap, clean the spark plug or install new, make sure all your wiring connections and coil lead are making good contact. If it has a kill button, make sure it isn’t grounding the system. Check for spark and fuel delivery. If it’s all good, you should be able to get it started. Enjoy the ride!

Matt

Dostoy320
Posts: 12
Joined: Mon May 14, 2012 11:38 pm

Re: Heavily butchered 350 scrambler

Postby Dostoy320 » Mon Nov 13, 2017 8:42 pm

Thanks for the reply Matt.

Yes, I was hoping to get as much fresh oil into the engine as possible before test firing. I'll follow your suggestions for doing so.

The carb is almost certainly from a vintage Honda. My uncles rode/raced Hondas back then, and it was likely scavenged from their collection. I'll go through it and clean things up.

The bike does require a battery to run. It was always a "total loss" system when I was riding it - something my dad just threw together to get it running I suppose. There are no wires exiting the case from the generator, so I'm not sure what's going on in there.

double diamond
Posts: 555
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:20 am

Re: Heavily butchered 350 scrambler

Postby double diamond » Mon Nov 13, 2017 9:51 pm

Total loss ignition is going to be easier for you to get working than the original electrical system.

One other thing I thought of: after you do all the other lubricating I suggested, spray some WD40 down the spark plug hole, let it sit for a little while then kick it over a few times. The cylinder/piston will have a little lubrication until the oil pump starts circulating oil. One of the advantages of back-filling the crank with oil is that the oil pump will start pumping oil that much sooner. BTW, give that oil filter screen (the oil drain) a good cleaning and make sure you get the end of it properly located back in the oil pickup.

Matt


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