basketcase comes aboard

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" So my headlight was made one year, 1966? "

____ Well, by late 1965 is probably when that HL.model actually first went into production but 1966 was the first-edition model-year for it, and Ducati still used that HL.model also on their WideCase Monza & Sebring models through the end of those two std.production models, (no-doubt for even further economical concerns).
The reason for why my previous wording seemed to express that 1966 was THE year for your square-style headlight-model, is cuz I assumed you're in the USA (as myself), and the U.S. only got (as far as I know) just the n-c.type Monza & Sebring models, of which most-all had been intended to be fully-constructed before the w-c.versions starting in 1967.
However if yours was from a Monza/Sebring which was imported to other than the USA, then I suppose it's possible that it was 'made' after 1966, (but I still have some doubts of that).
__ Unfortunately it seems that many in the U.S. who believe that they have a 1967 or 68 or even 69 N-C.Monza/Sebring model, really have a model which was actually 'created' (if not also 'produced') in the year of 1966, (which is why I always refer to the n-c.type Monza & Sebring models as being actually no newer than 1966).
(There's been some other past posts discussing the issue of how Berliner got-around selling 1966-models as later year bikes.)

____ In case you haven't noticed, I expanded my previous-post to include coverage of your mentioned rear-sprocket, (which I had neglected to include before).


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob

[basketcase]

Thanks Bob, I remember Dad saying it was a 65. But I have no title and I could not locate any numbers on the forks (brake pad/boss). And of course the foil sticker is gone.
Engine # DM250 97850
carb # UBF 24 BS

The parts bike has the sticker, I posted the pic of it. It has no title also. And i could not find the fork numbers.
Engine # DM250 83966
carb # UBF 24 BS

The rear sprocket might be aluminum, it has no rust. I will stick a magnet to it and see. You have a bigger sprocket than this?

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" I remember Dad saying it was a 65.
Engine # DM250 97850 "

____ Sorry, it seems your Dad was wrong... as that eng.number is certainly a 1966 model !


" The parts bike has the sticker,
Engine # DM250 83966 "

____ If it has a 5-speed trans, then I'm sure it's a 1963-model. _ (I'd have to check-through my old notes to be sure, and I'm not at my home now).


" You have a bigger sprocket than this? "

____ Unless yours is over 71-teeth,, then yes, I do.
__ I acquired my largest sprocket back in the early '70s and only used it once when I tried it out on a 4-speed Duke with a 13t drive-sprocket, so as to get experienced with the lowest 1st.gear possible. _ The resulting top-gear was about the same as the 1st.gear of a stock n-c 250 'Mark-3' (which is higher than that of a 'Mark-III')
(That gearing was pretty-much useless overall.)


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob

[basketcase]

Hey everybody, I am back!
And making some progress too. I talked to one of my dad's old racing buddy's. He is in his 70's and still races flat track on a 250 Ducati. He offered to tear down the motor and see what it needs, gaskets and seals for sure.
So i took the motor out and brought it to him, I havent seen him in over 30 years. After we were done talking bikes, we talked about Dad and him ridin and racin. He told me stories about my Dad that i never heard before. It brought a tear to my eye.

Now that the frame has no engine, I'm gonna fix a few things:

Steering stem bushings are sloppy. Are they a simple press out the old one's, press in the new one's operation?
Any suggestion on a source?

The forks are leaking. Seals are needed...any source suggestions?

The battery tray is cracked, gonna weld that up.

The steering stop thats welded to the frame is bent, and has a hole in it. Is the hole original? If not I'm going to weld it shut and bend it back in place.

There are several holes drilled thru the frame for a non original rear fender. Gonna weld them shut too.

The rear brake petal shaft is bent and is mushroomed on the ends from a hammer. Im gonna straiten, turn the mushrooming off, and re-machine the snap ring grooves.

It needs rear brake shoes. Any source suggestion? Or should I reline the old ones?

The tank had some kind of foam to protect it against the frame. It crumbled to pieces. What should I use in there?

One of the grease fittings on the swing arms is broke off, gonna easy-out the old one.

Also i have the red and black wire alternator. I think this is a good thing. Read a couple of post on the subject, but they are very loooong.
Do I have to run a battery?

Thats all for now folks,
Randy

[double diamond]

One question on the parts bike DM250 83566: is the "DM250" stamped on the left case half or the right? The original blue paint on this bike indicates it's a pretty early Monza. Unusual to see a frame tag with the full year stamped. Have a look at the Domiracer website for parts. Also Guzzino and eurotrashjambalaya. Chances are your fork tubes are rusted beyond repair, also look like they might be bent. You can get new tubes from fastfromthepast.

Matt

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" Also i have the red and black wire alternator.
Do I have to run a battery? "

____ Well it would be best if you did employ a battery but, there are always ways to get-around the need for a battery, depending on what you wish from your electrical-system.
__ Can you post a picture of your alternator ?


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob

[basketcase]

One question on the parts bike DM250 83566: is the "DM250" stamped on the left case half or the right?
Matt

The DM250 is stamped in the RH case. Does this mean its a 4 speed?

[basketcase]

____ Well it would be best if you did employ a battery but, there are always ways to get-around the need for a battery, depending on what you wish from your electrical-system.
__ Can you post a picture of your alternator ?
-Bob[/quote]

Next time I get over to where the engine is, I will snap some pics of the alternator.

I got the update on the condition of the 1966 motor.
It needs:
Connecting rod is border line. Since it is tore this far down, I want to replace it.....If I can find a rod kit for less than $500
Jimmy says (my Dads racing buddy) if i was racing then definitely replace it. If I'm gonna putt around, if will be ok.

Exhaust valve burnt.

Rings are wore out. ( it has the piston with 4 rings) ....(I think this means Monza originally.) The bore is standard.

Clutch basket has a broken off ear. Jimmy said he has run them that way, but cut a ear off opposite to keep it balanced. But keep a eye out for one.

The rivets that hold the fly wheel magnet's on are boogerd up. He said it looks like someone tried to pry on the fly wheel or something.

Also, its a good thing I didn't try to start it up. The cylinder gasket was on wrong and the oil hole was blocked. So no oil would have gotten to the top end.
The bottom piston ring was missing. (he said he ran one that way to reduce drag.)
The trans was assembled incorrectly , everything was there and looked good, just not put together right.

So now i go shopping.

[double diamond]

DM250 stamped on the right case identifies this motor as an early 4-speed.