help identifying a bike that is being purchased

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Teckhardt
Posts: 394
Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 10:25 pm
Location: Pacifc Northwet USA

Re: help identifying a bike that is being purchased

Postby Teckhardt » Wed Feb 24, 2010 6:37 am

miken5678 wrote:Is it even worth it to go in and open up the fake slots in the hub?


You can see what Jon Krocker did on his http://www.mts.net/~jkrocker/Duke1/

I copied his lead and opened the vents on mine last weekend. I still need to get some of the fancy perfed metal to cover the openings - or maybe I will just leave them open.
1970 450 SCR

DewCatTea-Bob
Posts: 2897
Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:53 am
Location: Near SE side of Lake Michigan

Rethreading Stripped-out Cyl.head-cover Holes

Postby DewCatTea-Bob » Wed Feb 24, 2010 7:05 am

By: miken5678...
" the hole in the tube. Its right at the bottom where you can see the shaft is in two pieces which I new see it looks like it should contain a sleeve to go around it. "

____ If who-ever installed the cyl.head without the sleeve, then tried to start the engine,, that would likely be why they gave-up trying to figure how to get it going.
Do you have tools to pull-off the cyl.head?
__ I've seen those tower-shaft housing-tubes listed on eBay fairly often!


" In reference to the stripped bolts, its just on the bevel cover.. i assume from looking at it that tapping it out to the next size would work.. as there really arent any threads in the holes. "

____ That's an all too common occurrence (especially on SCR-models!)!
That's because Ducati stupidly chose to use slightly cheaper 15/16mm Allen-bolts which are only able to grab just a few threads!!
Those original 6mm holes can be threaded to accept a full 25mm-length 6mm screw-bolt !
__ Going to the next biggest size (7x1mm), is too much trouble! _ If for some unusual reason, ya can't thread the holes deeper with a 6x1 flat-tip tap, then your next best choice is to re-tap with a common 1/4-20 tap, and it's best if ya thread all the way to the bottom, so that ya can then use 7/8ths or 1-inch 1/4-20 Allen-screws. _ Ya don't even have to re-drill the holes, as the stripped-out stock-sized holes are ready to tap, as is! _ However, ya really should use two types of 1/4-20 taps... First an 'extended-tip', (to get your threads started straight!), and then followed by a 'blind-hole' -(flat-tip) tap, (so as to get threads down to the bottom of the holes) !


" Looking at the bevel gears in the top end the washer is bent forward and the flat slot looks like its been messed with so either the washer is bent forward to lock the nut in place or this one has been opened up.. "

____ That tab-washer is for just the reason you thought... to keep the left-hand threaded camshaft-nut from loosening!


" Is it even worth it to go in and open up the fake slots in the hub? "

____ No, not really! _ I even doubt that it would be an overall advantage even for road-racing, with otherwise stock brakes.
It'd be just another (easier) way for forms of water (and road dirt) to get inside & spoil/curtail your braking some time when you chance upon such road/riding conditions !


DUKE-Cheers,
-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob

miken5678
Posts: 113
Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2009 4:28 am
Location: Jax

Re: help identifying a bike that is being purchased

Postby miken5678 » Wed Feb 24, 2010 5:57 pm

I figured opening the vents would make a nice little swimming pool inside the drum area.

Hopefully it doesnt rain tonight so I can grab some shots and pull the rest of her apart and get it inside the apt. Crossing my fingers that nothing horrible is wrong internally.

Teckhardt
Posts: 394
Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 10:25 pm
Location: Pacifc Northwet USA

Re: help identifying a bike that is being purchased

Postby Teckhardt » Thu Feb 25, 2010 12:04 am

DewCatTea-Bob wrote:That's an all too common occurrance (especially on SCR-models!)!
That's because Ducati stupidly chose to use slightly cheaper 15/16mm allen-bolts which are only able to grab just a few threads!!
Those original 6mm holes can be threaded to accept a full 25mm-length 6mm screw-bolt !


Good tip to know. I will also run a 6x1.0mm blind tap down the threads of mine. Then put some 25mm long allen bolts in.

Why is it more common on the SCR?
1970 450 SCR

DewCatTea-Bob
Posts: 2897
Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:53 am
Location: Near SE side of Lake Michigan

Hole Rethreading of the 6 x 1mm Alloy-Threads

Postby DewCatTea-Bob » Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:37 am

" I will also run a 6x1.0mm blind tap down the threads of mine. Then put some 25mm long allen bolts in. "

____ I have completed this task on every DUKE-cyl.head that I ever really cared about. _ It can be done with 13 of the cyl.head's 17 6mm-holes! _ It should be done with care though.


" Why is it more common on the SCR? "

____ Well there's two consequential reasons for that.....
1_The Scrambler-models were far more apt to be exposed to & get covered with dirt & grime !
Now I suppose at this point, there are those who may think: "Big-Deal, Bob." _ But ya have to keep in mind that back in their day, most DUCATIs were considered by the vast-majority of their (ordinary) owners, to only be just mere 'cycles' -(or "bikes" as they say these days),, and not the 'true-jems' -(DUKEs) that WE know them to be, today! _ So thus the majority of those -(AHs) who worked on DUCATIs back then, didn't even give a second-thought (or even a FIRST thought!) about cleaning-off the dirt from the threads before reinserting the cover-screws back into the cyl.head. _ Believe me, I know how things went back in those days! _ As I've over-looked as many such owners (in more than one part of the country), would simply turn the screws back in and pay no mind at all to the faint sound of the grinding-grit as the cover-screws tightened !
Oh sure, once in a while a better-joe would say something like: "Seems like maybe a little dirt or sand got in there!?" , and perhaps then even go-ahead & take the screw back out and wipe it a bit,, but by then it's too late, and nobody's really caring enough to bother cleaning-out the internal threads with a grease-coated 6x1mm-tap, (as I'd always do!) ! - (I'd surely bet that there's nobody in the world who has wiped as much dirt-contaminated grease from the flutes of 6mm-taps [after each cleaning of those 6mm holes], than I myself have done !)
So I say that if you happen to have a DUKE-SCR cyl.head of which it's cover-screws have no sign of the feel of any grit as ya tighten them, then you're quite lucky to have found such !
2_Unlike the road-bike DUKE-models, the SCR-models were more likely not ridden for as long of time-periods, per ride (without any chance to cool-off), and so the SCR-engines were (also more likely) subjected to more heat-up_&_cool-down periods, which then puts the weak alloy-threads of SCR-cyl.heads through even more stress (against the screws) ! - (Due to the varying expansion-rates, [between those alloy-threads & those of the denser steel-screws] !)
After having performed well over 200 tune-ups on nearly 200 different DUKEs -(ohc-singles), I can well assure ya that the SCR-models were far more likely to have an alloy thread-coil wrapped-around a cover-screw, when removed !
__ So anyhow, when ya shop for 25mm allen-screws (or 18mm, which don't require deeper thread-tapping), do consider the more expensive aluminum type ! _ They now come in anodized black; gold; blue; & red, (besides the natural aluminum-color, of course) !
____ I have already posted (since Nov.21) at least one other post telling of other details which ought to be known about this subject concerning the cover-screws & thread-tapping of DUKE-cyl.heads. _ I believe I first touched on tapping the cyl.head holes in the thread on sand & glass blast-cleaning.


DUKE-Cheers,
DCT-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob

miken5678
Posts: 113
Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2009 4:28 am
Location: Jax

Re: help identifying a bike that is being purchased

Postby miken5678 » Fri Feb 26, 2010 2:39 am

I am going to start a new thread and see if i can get some photos up

DewCatTea-Bob
Posts: 2897
Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:53 am
Location: Near SE side of Lake Michigan

Unwanted Eye-Drawing Logos on otherwise nice alloy-Rims

Postby DewCatTea-Bob » Tue Aug 31, 2010 5:42 am

By: Jim...
" My only gripe is that they bear the Tagasako logo in a garish red color and an equally obnoxious script.
Maybe it's just me, but I don't like having a Japanese name jumping out on my Italian bike. Between the color and the font, the names pops out when you look at the wheels.
The logo is probably anodized into the rim, It is quite impossible to remove. I tried everything including a light application of oven cleaner, all to no avail. "

____ I'm sorry to say that if I happened to be standing near your DUKE, that such would likely catch my eye and draw me to give those logo-marks a closer look,, and as soon as I read the name, I'd then get a sour-thought running through my mind & wish that I hadn't noticed the logo ! - (I think most of us understand what I'm actually trying to convey here.)
__ Anyhow, I'd suggest covering those nasty logos with either aluminum or chrome tape.
Ya can buy small rolls of such tape and cut-out pieces just large enough to cover the logo.
Just clean (& perhaps polish) the area & wipe-off with rubbing-alcohol just before attaching your tape-covering/overlay, (make sure to not touch the virgin-adhesive side with anything), and your tape-overlay should stay-put & may only need changing every other riding-season.
The tape-pieces may still be noticeable but, not as badly !!
__ I've done this before (on a L-twin I once had), and if that area of your rim is polished to the same luster as your chosen tape, the tape will then seem as transparent.

____ (I chose this particular thread because this subject was already touched-on, [on page-3].)


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob


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