Project Vento has begun: help wanted.

[themoudie]

Colour stability due to UV (down under climate) may not be good? Black is cheapest and goes with all bodywork colours.

Bill

[Dan C]

Just had the same problem with brake lines for an Alazurra. Couldn't decide between Red and Electric Blue so chose Black.....

[cooperplace]

I plan to rebuild both master cylinders, but how do i get the piston out the rear one? I've taken it off the bike, and can move the piston with my finger, but I can't see any way of getting it out of the cylinder. Suggestions would be much appreciated.

[themoudie]

Aye cooperplace, firstly I don't have one of these beasties. But, usually there is an internal circlip behind a rubber boot through which the operating rod comes and is connected to the brake lever. The circlip is usualy an internally expanding type, so that it needs to be compressed to remove it from the machined groove (land) in which it sits, in the body of the master cyclinder. Often due to electrolytic reaction between the aluminium alloy of the cylinder and the steel of the circlip these can be corroded together and will require soaking in release oil etc to enable the circlip to be removed, without cracking the master cylinder casting.

Once the circlip is removed the rod with its rubber seals and the return spring should pull out from the cylinder. Make clear diagrams/images/notes of the order in which they are arranged.

I do not know whom the manufacturer was of these cylinders, but would have thought that spares are still available. Ventodue is your man for this info!

Good health, Bill

[Duccout]

Yes, I second what Bill said. AFAIR, the circlip is behind the rubber bellows.

[Jon Pegler]

Peter,

I disagree with both Bill and Colin.
The rear master cylinder should be a 12mm Brembo item although sometimes 15mm are fitted.
Later Ventos use AJP items, but I think you should have a Brembo fitted.

The overhaul of the front and rear Brembo master cylinders is similar.
Remove the operating arm/lever
Remove the banjo bolt holding the hose on and insert a long, thin punch where the banjo bolt was fitted and tap the whole piston assembly out.
There is no circlip fitted or bellows.
The whole piston assembly is held in with a special washer that distorts as it is fitted and grips the side of the master cylinder bore.
To re-fit the piston you will to make up a tubular tool to push the new washer back into place.
If you've never done it before, just make a careful note of which way around all the different washers, seals and spring etc go.

Jon

[cooperplace]

Hi all, thank you. Mine looks Brembo, and the m/c lid is marked Brembo but there is no such marking on the m/cyl. The slave cylinder is Brembo. I've looked carefully and there is neither circlip nor bellows on the m/cyl. I have hit the back of the piston with a drift and hammer, to no effect. I'll soak it and try again.

Cheers

Peter.

[cooperplace]

it raises the Q of whether I should just leave this m/cyl alone. The piston still works. If I hammer in the banjo end with a drift, I might punch a hole in the piston. And I doubt if I could replace this m/cyl.
A search of Ebay for 'Brembo rear master cylinder" shows 696 hits, none of which remotely resemble this one.

[themoudie]

Aye Peter,

As Jon owns one of these beasties and from your comments has made a correct diagnosis, I shall play shtumm on the subject and yet wish you well.

Good health, Bill

[Duccout]

Whether to leave alone or not is always a question.....if the brake was working it might be wise to leave it and see how it goes. I am not sure if replacement seals are available; Brembo used to only supply a new piston kit, which came in a plastic pipe which was then used as the tool to drive in the new bush, but for a long time Brembo stopped making the replacements, but there were some pattern ones available.