Bob,
I have just started looking around for the materials. As both my 450's are 'stock', I want the harness to be as original as it can be.
Silver Shotgun wiring harness?
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Re-Wiring a WideCase Wire-Harness ...
" I want the harness to be as original as it can be. "
____ That's fine Bam, as the original wiring is sufficient enough.
However, there are a few improvements which ought to be considered...
__ A relatively minor modification which I always prefer to do, is to connect the charging-system's positive-output -(in this case, the Red wire-lead from the alternator), to the key-switch,, so that just like the battery's pos.output, this pos.output is then also disconnected from any load-circuits. _ The purpose of this wiring-modification is to prevent battery-discharging through the rectifier-circuit (whenever the ign.key is off).
While actually the rectifier is not really a 'load' as far as the large battery is concerned, it does indeed very slowly drain the battery's stored juice. ! _ And while that makes no real difference parked over-night, it does contribute to poor battery juice-storage performance.
The stock w-c ignition/key-switch has 3 terminals of which only two are utilized ! _ So the third (normally unused) key-switch terminal is nicely convenient for this added function !
__ The original 16Ga.Blue-with-black wire that feeds the brake-light & horn & turn-signal circuits ought to be increased to 14Ga, so that the horn can sound fully (whilst either of the other two circuits also happen to be drawing current).
__ A sore-point in any electrical-system which has to pass it's electrical-current through 'Ground', is having to DEPEND on it's related connections !
So whenever it's possible to 'back-up' -(reinforce) a ground-connection, it should be considered. _ For example, such as the (hopefully) grounded headlamp-shell... It would be a good idea to include an added 16Ga.wire to be connected to the HL.shell itself, and with it's other end grounded at the very-same point as where the battery's neg.terminal-post's ground-wire is connected to the frame.
Also, the 'ground-terminal' of the headlight-bulb should be wired to this added 'ground-wire' - (that's in ADDITION to the normal/stock method of grounding the light-bulb!).
In concert with that improvement, all the wiring which feeds the high-beam ought to be 14Ga (instead of just 16Ga).
__ Another good consideration is to add a 30-amp fuse in line with the (one & only!) 'battery ground-wire' ... That fairly important addition can possibly save a wire-harness from melt-down ! _ I much recommend this particular addition but, if this added fuse blows while the engine is running, with lights turned-on,, then the stock-rectifier can be fooled (by the alternator's pos.output), as if the battery is still on-line, and could then get it's internal-circuits over-worked & burned-up (as the owner's-manual warns of).
____ These are merely just the most important of the wiring-mods which I've done on my own Duke rewiring-projects, (which don't usually retain the stock-rectifier!). _ (There are of course still other more minor mods.)
Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob
____ That's fine Bam, as the original wiring is sufficient enough.
However, there are a few improvements which ought to be considered...
__ A relatively minor modification which I always prefer to do, is to connect the charging-system's positive-output -(in this case, the Red wire-lead from the alternator), to the key-switch,, so that just like the battery's pos.output, this pos.output is then also disconnected from any load-circuits. _ The purpose of this wiring-modification is to prevent battery-discharging through the rectifier-circuit (whenever the ign.key is off).
While actually the rectifier is not really a 'load' as far as the large battery is concerned, it does indeed very slowly drain the battery's stored juice. ! _ And while that makes no real difference parked over-night, it does contribute to poor battery juice-storage performance.
The stock w-c ignition/key-switch has 3 terminals of which only two are utilized ! _ So the third (normally unused) key-switch terminal is nicely convenient for this added function !
__ The original 16Ga.Blue-with-black wire that feeds the brake-light & horn & turn-signal circuits ought to be increased to 14Ga, so that the horn can sound fully (whilst either of the other two circuits also happen to be drawing current).
__ A sore-point in any electrical-system which has to pass it's electrical-current through 'Ground', is having to DEPEND on it's related connections !
So whenever it's possible to 'back-up' -(reinforce) a ground-connection, it should be considered. _ For example, such as the (hopefully) grounded headlamp-shell... It would be a good idea to include an added 16Ga.wire to be connected to the HL.shell itself, and with it's other end grounded at the very-same point as where the battery's neg.terminal-post's ground-wire is connected to the frame.
Also, the 'ground-terminal' of the headlight-bulb should be wired to this added 'ground-wire' - (that's in ADDITION to the normal/stock method of grounding the light-bulb!).
In concert with that improvement, all the wiring which feeds the high-beam ought to be 14Ga (instead of just 16Ga).
__ Another good consideration is to add a 30-amp fuse in line with the (one & only!) 'battery ground-wire' ... That fairly important addition can possibly save a wire-harness from melt-down ! _ I much recommend this particular addition but, if this added fuse blows while the engine is running, with lights turned-on,, then the stock-rectifier can be fooled (by the alternator's pos.output), as if the battery is still on-line, and could then get it's internal-circuits over-worked & burned-up (as the owner's-manual warns of).
____ These are merely just the most important of the wiring-mods which I've done on my own Duke rewiring-projects, (which don't usually retain the stock-rectifier!). _ (There are of course still other more minor mods.)
Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob
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