175 electrical questions

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= bodge ...
" std battery would be fine. "

____ You mean std.size, but voltage would rather be 12v, right ?



" ide need a second bridge rectifier for this setup ? "

____ Yes, of-course. _ And-also a related consequential disadvantage of not retaining the stator-powered headlight, is that you'll also have-to un-ground the lighting-coil and jump-connect it's ex.ground-lead to the terminal-board.
Although instead of acquiring a second bridge-block,, since you really only need just a single pair of power-diodes for the splitting-up of the pos & neg outputs of the ign.power-coil, you could certainly get-by with just two more power-diodes (instead of another block of four).



" ive got an old miller 3 position handlebar switch with horn and dip/engine kill? push buttons "

____ Sounds feasible but,, if you can post a picture of it's circuitry, I could then tell for sure whether it'd actually fully work-out.
And if not, you could consider rather leaving the main-lights always connected to the lighting-coil/bridge-circuit, (which would have the lights always lite-up whenever the engine is running),, and use a simple On/Off-switch to also power-up the lights with battery-power as well !



" if i could use cheap universal ignition switch "

____ Of-course a 160-type key-switch would work okay, but it may be more feasible to choose the type of key-switch that came stock on the w-c.350 Mototrans-model with electronic-ignition,, as it's rather odd switch-circuitry is the same (in that the somewhat unique key-switch closes one of it's two circuits whilst it opens the other).
Otherwise you ought-to be able to find a std.type key-switch with it's optional accessory-circuit position which still allows removal of the key. _ That way you could possibly use the accessory-circuit to keep the ign.circuit left killed.



" and coil that would save me a few quid "

____ Unfortunately also in this case as well, you really can't expect a commonly store-available cheap/universal replacement to fill-the-bill,, as the magneto-type ign.system pretty-much requires an ign.coil that has a primary-resistance which about matches that of the stock 'Green-label' DUCATI-coil. _ But if you happen-to find such a replacement that has a primary resistance-level of very*near 1-ohm, (* no less than .8 and-yet no more than 2.0 ohms), and-also has a decent turns-ratio as-well,, then that should suffice to replace the stock-ign.coil fairly well enough.
Such magneto-type ign.coils are fairly common on many types of motors, but are usually not considered as 'universal replacement-coils'.


Hopeful-Cheers,
DCT-Bob

[bodge]

your gonna hate me now bob but if its not getting away from using the (expensive) std ducati parts i may be better off doing a straight forward completly battery fed 12v system. is it possible to rewire the stator to feed a generic jap/chinese type regulator rectifier or build a simple regulator to fit after the bridge diode/s

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= bodge ...
" if its not getting away from using the (expensive) std ducati parts i may be better off doing a straight forward completly battery fed 12v system. "

____ I'm always at-least content to discuss the relative merits of any electrical-schemes you may wish to consider !
__ So exactly what parts are you concerned with being too expensive ?



" is it possible to rewire the stator to feed a generic jap/chinese type regulator rectifier or build a simple regulator to fit after the bridge diode/s "

____ Yes, of-course some way or another could likely be found to do so,, but the 4-pole alternator doesn't really produce enough power to really require a regulator, unless perhaps you intend to run the engine constantly at high-RPM with lights left turned-off for over two hours straight, (which may then begin overheating the battery).
__ If you're really concerned about serious excessive alt.power-output, (which is a bit of a laugh ),, then you may find the thread found at the following link, to be of some interest. - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1890&p=14367&hilit=Zener#p14365


____ I hope you've come to notice that my posts have become edited with new wording once I've signed-off with 'DCT-Bob' (like on my first-post on this page) !


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[bodge]

localy the ducati coil is £60ish and the only ducati ignition locks i can find are £30 compared to £15 and £5 for universal types (ebay)
ive also got half an idea to go for some sort of electronic trigger and dispense with the points and condenser at a later date which i think would also be easier/cheaper on a 12v batt fed system.
had a quick read of the thread you linked to i can get a 12v 7 ah battery from a uk ducati supplier for a reasonable sum so not worried about the regulation now

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= bodge ...
" localy the ducati coil is £60ish and the only ducati ignition locks i can find are £30 compared to £15 and £5 for universal types (ebay) "

____ All those prices are CRAZY-high*, and even if those given DUCATI-part price-figures were rather just as mere US.$s, they'd still be pretty-outrageous !
(* Assuming that a Brit.pound is worth near-about 2-US.$s .)
__ Don't you have a near-local bike junk-yard where you could shop* for a suitable good-used ign.coil (from a motor-bike/scooter or the like), as many small Europeon 2-cycle bikes employ magneto-type ign.coils that would most-likely work for your project-Duke as well.
(* You could take your ohm-meter along-with you to shop-through their available-supply to find an ign.coil which has near-about 1-ohm primary-resistance.)



____ I hope you've come to notice that my posts have become edited with new wording once I've signed-off with 'DCT-Bob' (like on my first-post on this page) !


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[bodge]

just noticed lacey ducati do std replacement coils for a much more reasonable figure ive been looking at so many sites/suppliers ive actually lost track of the best prices now and will have to go round again.but still leaning toward the all dc system for above reasons
edit:waffling

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= bodge ...
" lacey ducati do std replacement coils for a much more reasonable figure "

____ So then are you choosing to go with that source rather than shop for a used replacement-coil ?



" still leaning toward the all dc system for above reasons "

____ Can you go-over those reasons again ?
__ So do you care to consider rewinding your stator-coil(s), or merely just how to reconnect the present coils,, for an entirely battery-dependent system scheme ?
So do you now wish to further discuss the previously proposed five*wire-lead stator modification scheme, or what ? - (* Referring-to the original 3 wire-leads plus the addition of two more wire-leads for the then un-grounded coil-leads, [for an all battery-powered load-system].)



____ I hope you've come to notice that my posts have become edited with new wording once I've signed-off with 'DCT-Bob' (like on my first-post on this page) !


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob

[bodge]

soz for not getting back sooner been looking at spokes and tanks.

the more i read about it bob the more confused i get!

laceys doing the coils for £17 odd so it would seem rude not too 6v out of stock but hes got 12 volt in,unfortunatly hes not open atmo as hes moving.
the £60 coils i was refering to are from an italian ebayer seller i kept looking at as he does other stuff cheaper but their priced like that as their perfect replicas i assume.
going in circles now but as ive got the 175 aau could my stator be rewired to have the same wires out as a std 175 ?

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= bodge ...
" the more i read about it
the more confused i get! "

____ What do you mean by "it" ?
If there's anything I've written that seems unclarifiable to you, then quote my questionable wording and ask what it's meant to convey.



" 6v out of stock but hes got 12 volt in, "

____ Those voltage-ratings are really only relevant to battery-powered ign.systems.



" as ive got the 175 aau could my stator be rewired to have the same wires out as a std 175 ? "

____ As I've already somewhat sparsely covered, your stator's lighting-coil alone is already circuited pretty-much just-like the entire 175's stator-circuit. - (Somewhat inexplicably,, your WHITE-lead emulates the 175's RED-lead, and your RED-lead emulates the 175's WHITE-lead !).
So once un-grounded,, your lighting-coil alone, could then be connected-up just-like the entire 175-stator was connected to a stock 175-scheme, however the power-output would only be near-about half that of the 175-stator. _ So the bridge-rectified ign.power-coil would have-to be rather separately included to supplement the lighting-coil's power-output. _ (And that's the how&why for the 3 plus 2(added) wire-leads for the modified 28w.stator [with 5 wire-leads total].)
____ You still continue to use the word "rewired",, so I'm still left somewhat unsure if you're actually referring-to the possible rewinding of the stator-coil(s), or rather merely-just referring-to the possible alteration of the wiring-scheme concerning exactly how they're connected-up.
__ In any case however, since you don't have (and apparently can't afford to acquire) the rest of a stock-175 electrical-system,, you ought need not be much concerned with any type of attempts to alter your 28w.stator to exactly emulate the specific circuit-arrangement of the 175-version.
So if you decide to go-with an entirely battery-dependent system-scheme,, then you'd really only need to add just one more wire-lead to your stator, so that there would then be 2-pairs - (one pair for each ungrounded-coil), thus providing possible separate bridge-rectification for each power-coil.
If you wish to further explore the more-detailed details of this simpler scheme-option,, then mention so, and I'll next review it's related scheme-complexities.


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob

[bodge]

its nothing youve written bob its the amount of options "spoilt for choice" is what comes to mind