My altanator/ stator/ generator...what do I have here?

[DewCatTea-Bob]

____ NOTE - As I proceeded to post my post here, I then discovered that I had been pushed-over to this new-page due-to Jim getting his post posted first.
And once I read-through his post, I then realized the need for editing your post so that your included link could then be capable of functioning as expected.
And then once I saw the linked-w.site, I then also edited your posted-pic.section* so as to include the info that's presented with that picture from that w.site.
(* I went-ahead & did-so, only because you had left that wording-section blank. _ So of-course you're free to edit-out that transferred-wording & insert your-own wording, if you wish.)


Also continued from previous-page...

By: basketcase...
" I did check continuity... "

____ Well, 'continuity' isn't really all-telling.
If everything has turned-out as expected, an ohm-meter should show near infinity between any of the four wire-leads & the stator-plate. _ And also between your red and black wire-leads.
While an ohm-meter should read near zer0 between your black and white wire-leads, and also between your red & yellow wire-leads.



" I was looking at this regulator rectifier
Its rated at 42 amps, "

____ That ought to be something which you could possibly make use of,, but something like that may not be needed, depending on your chosen load-system.
In any case, 40-bucks is way too high of a price for such, (even if it did include a regulator-circuit) !
You should be able to find a full-wave rect.block (like that one), for under 10% of that price !
And if your chosen headlight is near 45-watts, it's then possible to go-without any regulator at all.
__ I now gather that you no-longer possess the original rect/reg.black-box, is that so ?



" I believe you said my stator is a 60 watt. Is that still the case after the modification. "

____ Quite likely not. _ And I-myself have never meant to claim that that 6-pole 4-powercoil alternator actually produces 60-watts,, rather, that's the 'rating' which Ducati had rated it for being capable of. _ And I suspect that rating was fairly fair-enough.
__ Whether your modified alt.stator will now produce more wattage, will depend on your chosen charging-system arrangement & your load-system.
So when you make a decision on what headlight your Duke-project will employ, then the type of suitable charging-system can be narrowed-down.



" For now I just want to get the bike running, "

____ Before you install your alt.rotor, perhaps we ought to explore the pros & cons of 'setting' it according to factory-directions. (?)


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob

[basketcase]

Well, 'continuity' isn't really all-telling. If everything has turned-out as expected, an ohm-meter should show near infinity between any of the four wire-leads & the stator-plate. _ And also between your red and black wire-leads. While an ohm-meter should read near zer0 between your black and white wire-leads, and also between your red & yellow wire-leads.

I will recheck things again.

I now gather that you no-longer possess the original rect/reg.black-box, is that so ?

Yes

Whether your modified alt.stator will now produce more wattage, will depend on your chosen charging-system arrangement & your load-system.
So when you make a decision on what headlight your Duke-project will employ, then the type of suitable charging-system can be narrowed-down.

All I have is the square Monza headlight bucket. It has no switches or bezel and I don't care for it. I was gonna look for something else, but that is in the future. Can we allow for a 12v system with high/low beam headlight, parking lights, brake light, and a horn? I dont know what to do here.

Before you install your alt.rotor, perhaps we ought to explore the pros & cons of 'setting' it according to factory-directions. (?)

Ok, I will relay this to Jimmy.(My dad's ol buddy who is rebuilding the engine for me.)

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" Yes "

____ That's okay, it would only be useful for a COMPLETE restoration-job anyhow.



" Can we allow for a 12v system with high/low beam headlight, parking lights, brake light, and a horn? "

____ Of-course, no-problem !



" I dont know what to do here. "

____ I'd be glad to make suggestions ! _ But at that point, we ought to move your project over-to another thread.



" Ok, I will relay this to Jimmy.(My dad's ol buddy who is rebuilding the engine for me.) "

____ The alternator can be 'timed' so as to produce it's max.output-power either at max.ignition-advance -(best for max.performance), OR, at static-ign.advance -(being MUCH-preferred if employing a battery-less system).
__ If you take pix of your alt.rotor's front & back sides, (making sure to keep it's timing-mark positioned at 12-o'clock in BOTH pix), I can then possibly tell you how many degrees before-TDC, that it's been intended to produce it's max.power at.



Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[basketcase]

If you take pix of your alt.rotor's front & back sides, (making sure to keep it's timing-mark positioned at 12-o'clock in BOTH pix), I can then possibly tell you how many degrees before-TDC, that it's been intended to produce it's max.power at.

I intend to run a battery.
Here is the brass rotor that I mentioned at the beginning of this thread. The original aluminum one needs a center hub and new rivets.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" I intend to run a battery. "

____ I agree that doing-so would be best.



" Here is the brass rotor that I mentioned at the beginning of this thread. "

____ It seems that it's a good-thing we decided to check-into this matter...
Going by the (rather small} mark-spot which it seems you added at 12-o'clock on the rotor's back-side, it's placement appears about 9-deegrees off from otherwise perfectly aligned-arrangement. ...
As far as I recall (without looking-up such in a manual), all 6-pole alternators are supposed to have their alt.rotor's timing-mark set a '0' degrees (to the crankshaft's TDC.point). _ But THIS one would then have the stator producing it's max.output about 9-degrees AFTER TDC (instead of before TDC, when it would then be of much more use !).
__ While I'm fairly-certain (at this moment) that I'm thinking straight on this, that (seemingly) illogical timing-mark location is leading me to suspect that I may be overlooking something which may explain why it's the way it is. _ So-thus I now need more pictures.
So can you post pix of your OTHER/stock mag.rotor with IT's timing-mark (like you did this brass-one), plus-also a shot showing where your stator is fitted ? _ (As I'm suspecting that your brass-rotor is from some model which may've had it's stator mounted & aligned at some tilted-angle (with respect to the cylinder), unlike that which is expected.



" The original aluminum one needs a center hub and new rivets. "

____ Even-so, I'd expect that IT's timing-mark should be located at a more logical location.


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[basketcase]

plus-also a shot showing where your stator is fitted ?

That might take a while, because the engine is a hour away at Jimmy's.

Here is the original aluminum rotor. It looks to be in about the same spot.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" That might take a while, because the engine is a hour away at Jimmy's. "

____ That's okay, as I'm quite certain as to exactly how the 6-pole stator is orientated onto the motor-case with respect to the tilt of the cylinder.
However we should still see a picture of your alt.stator after it's mounted, before installing your alt.rotor.



" Here is the original aluminum rotor. It looks to be in about the same spot. "

____ You're certainly correct, it's timing-mark is ALSO in the exact-same location !
And this disconcerting-news comes to me after I've just firmly concluded that the brass-rotor's timing-mark is exactly-situated as if that mag.rotor had been intended to be installed on the LEFT-side of the motor,, cuz in THAT-case, the mag.rotor would THEN cause the alt.stator to produce it's best-available power-output about 9-degrees BTDC, (which is perfect for the intended 5 to 8 degrees BTDC static-ign.timing !
But rather than to once-again begin doubting my-OWN reasoning, I'm much more tending to conclude that both of your mag.rotors have had their timing-marks stamped-in exactly 'backwards' from how they ought to have been.
__ This issue is not very complex to properly understand, so certainly there's at-least somebody here besides myself who can possibly clearly-understand that if either of your mag.rotors were to be installed (as directed in the workshop-manual) with it's timing-mark directly-aligned with the TDC.point of the crankshaft, that the alternator would then be creating it's peak-output at (about) 9-degrees AFTER TDC, (which is certainly a USELESS time to be doing-so !).
So who's confident enough in their reasoning-power to step-forth and either confirm my deduction or possibly even come-up with ANY explanation with any rime-or-reason for why the timing-marks on these mag.rotors happen to be located where they are.
__ The whole-idea behind bothering to 'time' a mag.rotor to any specific-point on the crankshaft, is for the sole purposeful-reason of having the alternator set so that it happens to create it's 'peak' (power-output) just-prior to the ign.points opening, (so as to help assure that the [battery-powered]- ign.coil has been 'saturated' as fully as possible [for best ign.spark] !).
(SIDE-NOTE... Anyone who has noted within the other thread, that I've recently stated that the 'peak' output should be timed to occur a couple of degrees AFTER the points open, (rather than a couple degrees before, like here-above), should realize that I actually haven't [rather seemingly] contradicted myself,, as the two involved ign.system/ign.coil types, work on opposite spark-producing principles ! )


Special-NOTE...
____ Just after I uploaded the included pic, I THEN-next lost my connection to the internet,, so not only was I then unable to finish this post, I'm afraid that it will be an unknown amount of time before I get my(OWN) internet-service restored.

UPDATE - It's now been nearly 6-days since I added the S.note above, and I now have the time (in my-own home) to finish-up this old-post (of over a week ago).
__ I've since realized that the colored-lines which I had placed on the pic of the mag.rotor were not very well done (as I had fairly guestimated their intended location-points), so I've now replaced that (rather rushed)- pic.job with the improved-one (now seen below) which has it's colored-lines more carefully depicted in their specifically-intended location-points.


Content-Cheers,
-Bob

[joe46ho]

NTE5322 Bridge Rectifier from Newark Electronics...(newark part # is 06M7446)

This is the same as what most of the "ebay guys" use to make there "custom" replacement honda rectifiers like the one you have depicted in this thread... This will run you a whopping $3.25 from newark (as of last time i bought some about a year ago) and the only thing they are adding is the (not so) "custom" leads which are totally un-necessary especially on a custom application like this. That is robbery charging that much for a common bridge rec. Bob wasnt far off That is even less than 10% of the price listed for the one you posted a picture of... One thing to keep in mind though, which im sure you probably already know (and if you do not grasp an understanding of this im sure if you read through this and other threads on the topic you will) is that this is only a rectifier, and will not "regulate" system voltage. Here is a reg/rec that i found doing a search though, i have never bought one of this specific type , but maybe this will work for you. this is also considered a upgrade/replacement for the older honda ct/cl's etc...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360468530364?ss ... 1438.l2649

If you do decide on buying one like this it would be good to report the results for others on here to read... also if you hunt around a little bit you can find a pigtail connector for this to make it a more professional looking installation. Obviously this is 6 volt, if you are looking at running this as a 12 volt system, there are countless 12 v reg/rec's out there to choose from.

Joe

[basketcase]

NTE5322 Bridge Rectifier from Newark Electronics...(newark part # is 06M7446)

This is the same as what most of the "ebay guys" use to make there "custom" replacement honda rectifiers like the one you have depicted in this thread... This will run you a whopping $3.25 from newark (as of last time i bought some about a year ago) and the only thing they are adding is the (not so) "custom" leads which are totally un-necessary especially on a custom application like this. That is robbery charging that much for a common bridge rec. Bob wasnt far off That is even less than 10% of the price listed for the one you posted a picture of... One thing to keep in mind though, which im sure you probably already know (and if you do not grasp an understanding of this im sure if you read through this and other threads on the topic you will) is that this is only a rectifier, and will not "regulate" system voltage. Here is a reg/rec that i found doing a search though, i have never bought one of this specific type , but maybe this will work for you. this is also considered a upgrade/replacement for the older honda ct/cl's etc...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360468530364?ss ... 1438.l2649

If you do decide on buying one like this it would be good to report the results for others on here to read... also if you hunt around a little bit you can find a pigtail connector for this to make it a more professional looking installation. Obviously this is 6 volt, if you are looking at running this as a 12 volt system, there are countless 12 v reg/rec's out there to choose from.Joe

Thanks for the info Joe. I am planing on converting to 12 volt. I started a new thread on regulator rectifier subject, hopefully we can move this to that thread.

[basketcase]

Well, 'continuity' isn't really all-telling.
If everything has turned-out as expected, an ohm-meter should show near infinity between any of the four wire-leads & the stator-plate. _ And also between your red and black wire-leads.
While an ohm-meter should read near zer0 between your black and white wire-leads, and also between your red & yellow wire-leads.

I re checked all leads with one probe against the stator base plate and all is well.....no shorts. I tried all combinations and the only thing that connects is the black to white and the red to yellow.