ducati 250 mk3 brake cable diameter

[Jordan]

A soldered brass nipple should be adequate and more compact than your present solderless one.
Common enough but usually sold in quantities so not so cheap for a one off.
A job for a pro?

[Geordie]

Tony, if you want a soldered nipple you will have to do it with the cable in-situ as the nipple won't pass through the cable entry of the engine casing.

Why not adjust the length of the thrust rod at the adjuster on the clutch plate?

Or am I missing something?

[DBDBrian]

Tony, As said , if you want to solder on a nipple you will have to do it in situ. If you go back to my post on page one of this thread, you can see the solderless retainer I made for the clutch cable, which can be removed easily and it does not damage the inner cable. It might appear to be long, but there is adequate clearance in the cover if the clutch push rod is adjusted correctly. PS it is radiused on the end which contacts with the release lever

[tonyduc]

Tony, if you want a soldered nipple you will have to do it with the cable in-situ as the nipple won't pass through the cable entry of the engine casing.

Why not adjust the length of the thrust rod at the adjuster on the clutch plate?

Or am I missing something?

Thanks, Geordie, for pointing out the obvious issue that I missed. The adjustment screw was all the way in - it’s end even with the lock but. I turned it out 3-4 times and that brought lever in enough to clear the case. But I still will try soldering a barrel in situ- not to confident with the screw type.
Thanks
Tony

[Jordan]

It may seem dicey, but the factory was happy enough to use solderless screwed nipples on the front brake cables.
A spare screwed nipple could get you home?

[themoudie]

AaaaHa! Now I see!

As you found, adjusting the clutch centre adjuster screw gave you the required clearance.

Maybe an alternative to having just the solderless nipple would be to leave a longer end and tin the cable end before threading it through the casing and the clutch operating arm, so that it doesn't fray. Then after setting your solderless nipple in postion you could use a Venhill "Aluminium splicing ferrule for 2mm wire" Link: Venhill_SKU:A2

After looping the inner wire on itself, use a pair of 'Mole' grips to swage/crimp the aluminium splicing ferrule to the wire end, as in Venhill's image and have it adjacent to the solderless nipple. No jaggy frayed ends and a bit of belt and braces security, if the solderless nipple decides to slide a bit!

Good health, Bill