Any resto's going this winter?

[Eldert]

anyway : back to restorations

this is the project in am working on right now



it is a 450 bored and stroked ( 90 X 78 )taken out to 496 cc .i put a springer head on with reangled oversize valves
74 degrees combined valve angle and 44 mm and 38 mm valves
i had new inputshafts made up that wont break and put on straight cut primary gears with a differend ratio
to speed up the gearbox so there is less load on the gears
i made the rear swing arm 2 inches longer and i put Scrambler bottom sliders on the front fork and laced
a Grimeca 180 mm 4 shoe brake to the 21 inch rim

put in a alternator instead of the flywheel magneto ignition and converted to 12 volts
electronic ignition is Boyer and no battery is fitted but a Boyer Powerbox to rectify and store some energie
i am working on a wiring loom right now and then she is ready to fire up

Regards Eldert

[DewCatTea-Bob]

it is a 450 bored and stroked ( 90 X 78 )taken out to 496 cc .
i put a springer head on with reangled oversize valves
74 degrees combined valve angle and 44 mm and 38 mm valves
put on straight cut primary gears with a differend ratio
put in a alternator instead of the flywheel magneto ignition and converted to 12 volts
electronic ignition is Boyer and no battery is fitted but a Boyer Powerbox to rectify and store some energie


____ Very,very nice, and much of interest here, Eldert!!
__ How did you get the extra 3mm of stroke, install a larger crank-pin in a relocated crank-throw, or simply use a 1.5mm offset-pin?
__ The stock valve-angle is 80-degrees... How about posting some pictures of your much modified 450-springer-head?
__ The stock primary-ratio is 1:2.11 (57/27t), what did you up it to, 1:1.8 ?
__ I hope you don't use a type of full-wave rectifier (on the entire output of a standard wide-case alternator), that wastes excess juice to ground!?
____ Too bad that Ducati never did these mods, as you have, Eldert !


DUKE-Cheers!!
-Bob

[Eldert]

here a picture of the reshaped combustionchamber . i put a small 10 mm sparkplug as high as possible in the head



i stroked the crank by using a straight 34 mm bigendpin ( from a Yamaha ) in the relocated hole

[Eldert]

the new primairy gears are 53 / 29 so the ratio is 1 to 1.827



and the new inputshaft witn new 2nd and 3rd gears . changed 2nd gear from Z =22 to Z =21
so we could put 3 dogs on a whole tooth

the original inputshaft can break at the circlipgroove for 2nd gear when you tweak the engine



Eldert

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" here a picture of the reshaped combustionchamber . i put a small 10 mm sparkplug as high as possible in the head
i stroked the crank by using a straight 34 mm bigendpin ( from a Yamaha ) in the relocated hole
the new primairy gears are 53 / 29 so the ratio is 1 to 1.827
and the new inputshaft witn new 2nd and 3rd gears . changed 2nd gear from Z =22 to Z =21 so we could put 3 dogs on a whole tooth "


____I'M VERY IMPRESSED Eldert! _ (And that doesn't happen too easy!)
As I doubt that there's any other individual (currently) in the world, who has come close to matching the great extent of your extreme modifications (to their DUCATI-single), as you have!
So I sure vote for you as TOP-Modifier of DUCATI-single projects! _ Cuz I now am quite sure that if there were to be a 'WORLD-WIDE Show' for all DUKE-projects,, that you, Eldert, would surely take the Top-TROPHY as KING of the show!

Top-Cheers for Eldert!

-Bob
PS. Sorry if I have gone over-the-top here, but, I'm THAT IMPRESSED!!

[Eldert]

__ I hope you don't use a type of full-wave rectifier (on the entire output of a standard wide-case alternator), that wastes excess juice to ground!?



DUKE-Cheers!!
-Bob[/quote]

Hi Bob
i ditched the original full wave center tapped rectifier design and went for a full wave bridge type rectifier and did
not use the center tap ( the red wire ) only the 2 yellow wires are used with this setup

Eldert

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" i ditched the original full wave center tapped rectifier design "

____ Eldert, your two diagrams are both correct representations of your 'before & after', (although the diagram which is supposed to represent the stock set-up, shows it's 2 diodes facing backward!).
__ However the stock rectifier-unit is not "full wave",, it's more like 'dual half-wave', (as 4 diodes are required for full-wave rectification, and the original-unit has only two power-diodes)!

"and went for a full wave bridge type rectifier and did
not use the center tap ( the red wire ) only the 2 yellow wires are used with this setup "

____ Right, that's the easiest (& cheapest) way to convert to a 12-volt system!
The downside to not making any use at all of the RED-wire-lead, is that if you run at high-RPMs with lights off, your voltage-regulator will be overworked, and many such regulators simply dump excess power-juice to ground, thus robbing power from your rear-wheel, while also over-heating the alternator, & reducing fuel-economy!
__ That's why I had mentioned before that I hope you don't use such a rect.reg-unit on the entire output -(between the two yellow-wires) of that "70-watt" alternator!
____ I know of several (more complicated) wiring-methods for taking full advantage of that alternator's capability, without as much waste.
I may get to posting details about that some time.


DUKE-Cheers,
-Bob

[DesmoDog]

____ I know of several (more complicated) wiring-methods for taking full advantage of that alternator's capability, without as much waste.
I may get to posting details about that some time.

Please do, I'm nearing this phase on my projects and am confusing myself with the different options..

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" I'm nearing this phase on my projects and am confusing myself with the different options.. "

____ Well Craig, it would take me a real long time to post complete details on each of the methods I know of for wide-case models! _ So I would need more details on what you have going and what you wish to accomplish.
Do you have your stator removed? _ (The best modified-system requires adding a 4th wire-lead. - [Although it's advantage is not worth the work involved, just to add a 4th-wire].)
Would you care to install an AMM-meter -(like Brit-bikes have employed), on your project? _ If not, it would be convenient to use a light-switch (which includes a dual-switch) like Jap-bikes use.
Do you have such a switch, or would you be willing to obtain one for your project?
Otherwise, if you use a manual-switch of some sort -(toggle?), then it would be up to you to guess when your system can use the extra-power that's available from the wide-case alternator. _ (As it really doesn't make good sense to require your engine to force the alternator to produce more power-juice than your electrical-system can make good use of [at any given time]! - As Eldert's full-wave scheme would definitely do whenever the lights are not on!)
__ If you have any question that's directly related to anything I have written in this thread, then please post it here. _ Otherwise save any other questions related to this particular subject for when I've started a new thread specifically for modifying the WideCase charging-system.


Tillater,
DCT-Bob

[DesmoDog]

Oops... both my projects are narrowcases... a 160 and a 350.