Stuck clutch

[Duccout]

That is what I do as well.

[Jordan]

Reluctant to do so as I have a history of half finished bikes ! . I answer to the name of Half a job Bob . It also does not leak a drop , Hard to better that !. I'm a bit curious as to your oil level, mine is about 1/3rd the way up the clutch , I always fill to the top of the tower

Suggest you psych yourself up for a one session job commitment.
Maybe start in the morning so less chance of not finishing it the same day.
But really, it's not such a big task.
I did forget to mention the kickstart removal, but it's not much extra.

I use the dipstick marks to set oil level.
If full, there might be a small amount of oil above the crankcase floor, but if propped over to the right, not much oil should spill out when clutch cover is removed.

[Ventodue]

Can even be done by the side of the road, leant up against a handy stone wall (damn clutch centre nut came loose despite being 'locked' by a Brancato Special lock washer ...)

[Bevel bob]

Decided to drain the oil as it looked dark brown, done about 1000 miles with rich mixture ,so plenty of carbon. PLates well stuck and had to be prised apart with screwdriver. Considering taking clutch out to check KS teeth etc. Doubtfull charging suggests might be prudent to pull the alternator too. Gasket fell apart so no rush now . The lesson is, Kick it over regularly and free the clutch !!.

[Jordan]

:

[ducwiz]

damn clutch centre nut came loose despite being 'locked' by a Brancato Special lock washer ...)

Don't know those "Brancato lock washers". As I doubt any lock washer in this position, I successfully use Loctite thread locker.

Doubtfull charging suggests might be prudent to pull the alternator too.

You should do measurements of resistance and insulation to ground on the stator windings prior to this. It might not be necessary to break the taper joint by pulling the rotor.

Hans

[Ventodue]

damn clutch centre nut came loose despite being 'locked' by a Brancato Special lock washer ...)

Don't know those "Brancato lock washers". As I doubt any lock washer in this position, I successfully use Loctite thread locker.

Like this, Hans. Tony thought they were an improvement, but my experience left me less convinced ...

Brancato clutch centre tab washer.jpg

[Bevel bob]

I also use that type of clutch lockplate and it has worked fine . My clutch has a tendency to heat up in traffic so I am going to set it up with a dial indicator to check its lifting totally square . Not normally adjustable unless you put a shim under the spring in the spring box or between the box and pressure plate. Should not be necessary but has worked with other bikes. I will take some readings of the 2 wire 60 watt Alt but it has been modified (earth wires lifted and joined.).

[ducwiz]

Hi Bob,

thanks for this picture. I recall having seen this type of plate a long time ago, in this forum.
My experience: the nut loosens because it ist made from a very soft steel. A proper locking shim or plate holds it in place though, but the clutch inner gets loose and rattles on the splined shaft - no good.
I suppose Nord-Lock washers https://www.nord-lock.com/en-gb/nord-lock/ would solve the problem. I always wanted to test a pair, but did not open my engine for many years ...

You can test your stator according to a service bulletin stored here: http://www.motoscrubs.com/Electrical_system_service_bulletin_1.htm

Hans

[themoudie]

Aye Bob,

Clutch centre slackening problems and the clutch no freeing off used to give me grief, with the '74 450 MKIII. The following has not caused problems in the last 2,500 miles. That's hexed it!

A set of Lacey 2mm steel clutch plates and the 1mm spacer included in the kit.

A tab washer of similar design to the "Brancato" tab washer image posted by 'Ventodue'. But, with clearly defined tabs. I attach a scan of the type that I use. After tightening the clutch centre nut, I then use a pair of 'Mole' grips to lift the tab that will have the greatest interference on the clutch nut flats and give it a good squeeze. I am not sure what material the tab washer I have is made from, but an engineering friend might oblige, if sufficient number were requested. "Soft" nuts and tab washers have not been a problem, suggest replacement ASAP if any sign of galling, rounding or other deformation.

All small burrs on the clutch plate tabs, the clutch basket and inner drum dressed smooth with a fine 6" flat warding file, used on chainsaw chain depth gauges.

Clean the drive shaft thread with brake cleaner, apply a single drop of 'Nut Lock' fluid, NOT STUD LOCK and torque the nut to 55 - 60 ft/lbs (75 - 80 Nm). Thank you Nigel.

The latter was my Achilles heel, as I was feared to tighten the nut sufficiently and for many years didn't have a torque wrench, so "tight", depended on the length of knuckle bar and the security of locking everything in position!

I apologise if this is like getting my Grandmother to "suck eggs", but if it helps you or others, so much the better.

Finally, changing from 40w oil to 15w/50 synthetic has also made a big difference.

Good health, Bill