ducati 250 mk3 brake cable diameter

[themoudie]

Aye Jordan and Alex,

Here is an image of the front brake clevis system that I use to secure the front brake cables to the brake arm and the part numbers of the items that I purchase from Venhill.

Link to Venhill's website: Cables&Components

Galvanised clevis #HK316
Galvanised clevis pin #HK26
Galvanised split pin #VSP002
Brass nipple #TN24
1.5mm 1 x 19 wire cable

I hope this helps, Bill

[themoudie]

Aye Alex,

Here are two images and a dimensioned sketch of the widecase rear brake stop switch/cable bracket on an unmolested 1973 450 MKIII frame.

I hope my sketching helps, rather than hinders!

My regards, Bill

[Jordan]

Thanks to Bill and Brian for photos of their neat control cable solutions.
The drawing of the rear brake bracket will help a lot for anyone wanting to un-cafe their bike.

[themoudie]

My pleasure Jordan, thank you.

Bill

[Scottish888]

Thanks for the photos and detailed drawings
I used that information to make a new bracket and welded it on today, just changed the external shape a little and left the brake switch hole at 6mm till I find a smaller switch.
Without the info it would have been total guess work so thanks again and thank you to everyone for the helpful cable pics and info.
I'll need to get a better circlip collection, that one is temp for set up only.

Regards,

Alex

ducbrk1.jpg

ducbrk2.jpg

[Jordan]

Alex is a fast worker.

[tonyduc]

Very good info on this thread. I am having clearance problems with my cable on the clutch side, it is hitting the case. Adjusting tension on the lever side in order to clear the case results in the clutch being engaged to much. The problem is with the long screw on type barrel that came with it, so I was thinking fabricating a barrel from round stock on my lathe, then using the tin-solder method to fasten the cable which may save at least 1/4" length. Question is what type of material are the barrels made from ? I have steel, aluminum and brass round stock.

[Jordan]

Brass will take solder well, and not rust.
Bronze is stronger. I'm not sure it solders as well, but easy to test.

[themoudie]

Aye Tony not sure which clearance problems you are refering too? Or which of your singles? Or am I just being thick?

Do you have an image(s) that you could attach to a post to show what your problem is?

The adjuster barrel that I have on my clutch cable and that should thread into the slotted and threaded lug on top of my '74 MKIII 450 widecase crankcase is made from brass and has a chrome finish, with a small slim locknut.

Or are you refering to the tulip nipple that is soldered to the end of the clutch operating cable and sits in the slotted recess of the clutch operating arm?

My apologies if I have missed the whole thrust of the question, but I am not clear what your problem is that requires the turning up of a "barrel"!

Good health, Bill

[tonyduc]

Hi Bill
It’s a 67 MK iiii 250 NC. I figured I can save 1/4” with a shorter barrel and shorter cable ends. According to the videos I’ve seen on cable soldering you need at least 1/8” of frayed end which is then dipped into melted solder.
Thanks
Tony