Points Set-up

[JimF]

I only ever time my engines statically, that is to say using a degree wheel but that's just me. What do you shine the timing light on?

Jim

[gregwils]

Sorry, didn't mean to imply I was doing anything other than static timing - using a degree wheel with a test light.

[Jordan]

Reading Jim's replies I see I should have mentioned a bit more:
When testing the wiring, points should be open.
Also, disconnect the lead that connects the points to the HT coil before using your multimeter. That will completely isolate the system you're working on, and you should get a true ON/OFF rather than just a drop in resistance.

Jim mentioned a fibre washer with a collar, but the ones I have here have a separate small washer, rather than a double diameter fibre washer. That's not to say Ducati didn't use both types. Mine have 3 fibre washers, all with the same size hole to fit the screw, but 2 of them with larger outside diameters than the little one that fits inside the plate lug.

Long shot, but are you sure you are on the compression stroke when the points open?
It's possible for the advance/retard mechanism to be installed 180 degrees wrong, which because it turns at half engine speed would open the points at the wrong cycle. If that is the case, remove the points main baseplate, then the screw/washer that retains the adv/ret mech, then pull it out a few millimeter and turn it 180 deg before reassembling.
But you said there is no spark at all, so this is unlikely?

[gregwils]

Thanks for the response Jordan. I think I am checking on the compression stroke, what would I need to do to verify? I was getting some nasty backfiring out of the exhaust when I tried, but failed to start it. I wonder if it is backwards and the spark was igniting unburned fuel in the exhaust from the previous cycle. How would I verify? Pull the valve covers?

I did verify that the bolt securing the spring, condenser and HT leads are isolated from the points plate. There appears to be an insert in the points plate mount. I will still test with a multimeter, but I feel pretty confident the dark insert is some non-conductive material.

[Jordan]

Yes, it looks like you have the small fibre washer in place, tight fit it seems.
An easy way to find the compression stroke is to slowly turn over the engine until you feel the resistance caused by compression.
Then the piston would be partly up the cylinder, and the ignition position will be some way farther up, before top dead centre.
The points cam should be near to opening the points.

[ecurbruce]

Jim says, " I only ever time my engines statically, that is to say using a degree wheel but that's just me. What do you shine the timing light on?"

Hi Jim. Here's something I did to shine a light at...

2016-07-22 15.55.29.jpg

2016-07-22 15.57.19.jpg

The black pointer rotates on the protractor with the engine running.
Degree wheel bolts to the engine cases with brackets.

Bruce

[Jordan]

That's an interesting looking device, Bruce.
How do you keep the pointer from slipping when the engine is running? There seems to be no keyway for the crankshaft end, or at the pointer hub?

[ecurbruce]

Hi Jordan,
That long red bolt of the black pointer screws into the end of the crankshaft as usual, and if you look in the photo, just at the end of the red bolt, is a jamb nut threaded on about a quarter inch up the bolt. Just secure the jamb nut after screwing the red bolt all the way into the crankshaft. It holds fine, never slipped on me. There's really no pressure on it to speak of during engine rotation, just the small amount of weight of the black pointer.

Bruce

[gregwils]

I finally got a few moments today to hook my points back up. Now that everything is clear to me, I made sure things were properly insulated. The good news is that I got I a big fat spark multiple times. Unfortunately, I did not have time to try to start it, so I'm not sure if it will fire up.

I had previously purchased a cheap USB endoscope for a car project. I used it this time to positively verify I was on the compression stroke. Interesting to take a peak at my exhaust value. At this point, I think I just need to run the motor.

[BDang]

Bruce,

The crank rotates CCW from this side, and so this prevent the pointer shaft with standard thread from backing out. Also I thought I saw the equivalent of the sotck 14mm hex cover with a center hole for the shaft passes through, and why it was needed, with a bearing to support the pointer shaft?

Regards,
Brian