1966 Mk3 Restoration

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Stan Lipert
Posts: 52
Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 4:40 pm
Location: Cleveland, Ohio

Re: 1966 Mk3 Restoration

Postby Stan Lipert » Sat Dec 15, 2012 5:51 pm

Jordan,
In fact that even with a heated head, aluminum gets pulled from the bore during removal, plus I believe that the bore surface gets compressed some. I've installed some guides in other kinds of heads dry,(and hot) where I was sure some galling took place. I removed the guides, and for sure, there was galling. Time for larger guides. I have just heard last week of a CB350 race ported head that went to Oz, that unbeknownst to the owner, the guides were found to be loose during assembly, and the machinist knurled the guides and installed, instead of getting the proper size guide! The guides came loose after a season of racing, as one would expect.
As far as seats, every time the engine gets hot, parts expand, and then contract upon cooling. The seats won't get loose and stay loose from a heat cycle.
Graeme and Kevin, thanks for the comments.

I didn't have a crankpin plug handy, so I made one from 1mm cold rolled:
Ready to press and peen:

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I'm shimming this engine for no center case gasket. After shimming, the bead of Ducati Bond is applied and cased ready to go together:

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Bottom end looking good. Head ready for valves . The crank end oil journal was galled and worn badly, so I turned it down to a fresh surface, and I'll make a custom sized oil bush with a smaller ID for the timing cover:

Image

Bevel bob
Posts: 1097
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:01 am
Location: Bromley Kent UK.

Re: 1966 Mk3 Restoration

Postby Bevel bob » Sat Dec 15, 2012 7:19 pm

Hi Stan , your skills and equipment are well beyond mine,some things i have found out may be of interest. If the oil bush is sized correctly it usually damages the crank due to alignment issues.More clearance is no problem. With no case gasket head bolts may be tight,(mine were). 5 speed selector drums are a bad design and will work best if loosley shimmed.Crank shims will wear loose if they bear apon the tiny radius at the flywheel cheek.

Stan Lipert
Posts: 52
Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 4:40 pm
Location: Cleveland, Ohio

Re: 1966 Mk3 Restoration

Postby Stan Lipert » Wed Dec 19, 2012 7:49 am

Bob, Thanks, alll very good sugestions. As the center case gasket was only. 008", I did not change the drum shimming, only reused the shims , and it did tighten up free play to about 010". I selected the crank shims by assembling the crank into the cases and measuring the free play with an indicator. The total freeplay was then split between two shim sizes. After assembly, I know that the shims have seated concentric to the journal radius by feeling the resistance to the crank turning, the same proceedure to shimming a new (non Panigale) Ducati crank.
I'll show how the oil bush goes when I get to it.

Stan

Bevel bob
Posts: 1097
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:01 am
Location: Bromley Kent UK.

Re: 1966 Mk3 Restoration

Postby Bevel bob » Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:52 am

Hi Stan ,I notice your clutch centre is well notched (as is mine) , do you plan to find another or have you some other clever solution?. The clutch lifting bits are very vulnerable to chain damage .Some make up a steel guard.

Stan Lipert
Posts: 52
Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 4:40 pm
Location: Cleveland, Ohio

Re: 1966 Mk3 Restoration

Postby Stan Lipert » Wed Dec 19, 2012 6:12 pm

Bob,
The clutch center is slightly dimpled, not bad in my opinion. As you can see, there was some damage to the clutch lift arm that I repaired. I will keep the stock arrangement as I don't expect the future owners to be abusive to this bike.

I used zip ties to help install the valve springs:

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Valves are shimmed with standard 8mm modern Ducati opening shims, this is the same rocker shaft puller that I use for a 1967 narrow case and a 2013 M1100! Evolution, not (much) revolution.

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Rewiring the stator:

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The stator wires are pulled through some rubber fuel line as a perfect substitute for the stock sheathing, silicone lubricant helps:

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For checking the cam timing, I'm using a spare broken cylinder while Bill at Bore Tech finishes the bore job. A spacer and strip of metal provides a perch for the magnetic indicator base:

Image

Bevel bob
Posts: 1097
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:01 am
Location: Bromley Kent UK.

Re: 1966 Mk3 Restoration

Postby Bevel bob » Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:23 pm

40 watt stator on a 1966?

Stan Lipert
Posts: 52
Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 4:40 pm
Location: Cleveland, Ohio

Re: 1966 Mk3 Restoration

Postby Stan Lipert » Fri Dec 21, 2012 6:29 pm

Bob,
According to my guide, Tom Bailey's excellent book, all of the MK3 250's had the battery-less flywheel magneto, as shown. (1965-1967) This is the original magneto that the bike came with, one coil is for the ignition, the other is for the headlight & tail light -AC. This bike is the one with the goofy system of grounding the ignition charging coil through the tail light, with the toggle switch on the tail light bracket that allows you to ground the coil if the tail light burns out.

Got the frame back from the painter:

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Steering stem installed:

Image

graeme
Posts: 1006
Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2012 12:00 am
Location: Tasmania Australia

Re: 1966 Mk3 Restoration

Postby graeme » Fri Dec 21, 2012 8:56 pm

Nice to see a painted frame ( it is paint, isn't it? ) good job too.
If its PC, the coater isn't the usual garden furniture coater.
Graeme

Bevel bob
Posts: 1097
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:01 am
Location: Bromley Kent UK.

Re: 1966 Mk3 Restoration

Postby Bevel bob » Mon Dec 31, 2012 9:24 am

In the uk Mark3 Narrowcase 250's usually have a 60 watt alt and battery, bikes were not bought for fun and had to provide daily transport in all weathers night and day. A bike without a battery was viewed with suspicion.Toms book is focussed on the US market ,however he does mention UK specs. I have a 69 reg one that was probably built earlier.

alno
Posts: 35
Joined: Wed Nov 07, 2012 3:36 pm

Re: 1966 Mk3 Restoration

Postby alno » Tue Jan 01, 2013 2:07 am

Hello Stan,
First, Happy New Year. I am recreating a Mach 1. I realize the getting a set of Mach 1 set cover / tool box will take some time and will be expensive. I would like to know if while you're restoring your bike could I get the dimensions of the brackets that connect the side cover to the frame. I will be painting the frame in the near future and would like to have that part finished. "If dreams came true" Do you know of any one that may sell a set of side covers?
Thank You for the very good updates on your bike.
Al


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