Monza Square headlight parts.

[averydad]

Thanks Bob,
I worked on the carb adjustment yesterday and got the engine to idle pretty well. Now when I try the horn with lights on, the horn will not sound even when the bike is reved.
I have a battery of unknown age so there`s a good chance that it`s the culprit as you suggest. Also in my haste to get everything done I used cheap crimp on connectors for my battery connections.
Therefore I guess that I`ll go back and solder on some solid copper terminals. Then go back and solder all my blue wire conections to the horn. Also I`ve seen the new style sealed battery and thought it might be a nice upgrade to lessen maintenance and avoid spilled acid.
Any reccomendations on batteries ?

For the weekend , I`m going to put this issue on the back burner and try to get the bike on the road to get out and enjoy a ride !
It starts and runs OK and I`ll just run with lights out for now.

The only thing standing in my way to ride the bike is my clutch ! To my surprise now that I have everything back together I`m having a problem.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" Now when I try the horn with lights on, the horn will not sound even when the bike is reved. "

____ I assume that change must be due to the battery not being freshly charged over-night, as before.(?)


" I have a battery of unknown age so there`s a good chance that it`s the culprit as you suggest. "

____ Well I actually hadn't outwardly-suggested that, as I HAD assumed that your battery was not too old.
If it was ever left sitting completely discharged for a long period, then it's likely become much weaker capacity-wise.
__ Another way to check your battery's vitality is to connect-up a volt-meter to it (after being charged-up), to confirm that it has 6.3 to 6.8 volts (with no load connected). _ Then see how much it's voltage drops-down to, when you turn-on the lights; also, when you activate just the horn; and also, when both lights & horn are activated.
I'd guess (without actually checking myself to be sure), that a 'good' (stock sized) battery's voltage would only drop-down to no lower than (about, [depending on it's beginning/no-load voltage] ), 5.9v; 5.6v; & 5.0v (respectfully).
So if your battery's voltage drops (for instance) from 6.4v to less than 4.8v when both loads are activated, then we can be sure that it's your battery that's at fault, (rather than any poor connections to your horn), for not being able to sound your horn (with lights on).
On the other-hand, if the battery's voltage doesn't drop-down so very much (when both loads are activated), then your horn-sounding issue is more likely due to poor connection(s) between the battery & horn.


" Also in my haste to get everything done I used cheap crimp on connectors for my battery connections. "

____ Well if they were installed just as they're intended to be, then they should be quite adequate.


" Therefore I guess that I`ll go back and solder on some solid copper terminals.
Then go back and solder all my blue wire conections to the horn. "

____ Those are probably not pertinent concerns, unless your battery passes the suggested voltage-test (by not dropping-off much).


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob