Case splitter tool

[bendik]

I remember seeing somebody welded together a simple case splitter tool, but I cannot find it again. I know I can split them without one, but I would feel better if I could press them apart instead of banging at stuff..
Anybody have a tool they have a picture of?

[Duccout]

Hi,

I think it was 'themoudie' aka as Bill, who posted about a case splitting tool. I followed Nigel's advice and used a large diameter drift through the selector drum hole as well as tapping on the clutch cable boss, kick start stop and barrel hole. Those cases can be pigs to separate if they have been together for a long time.

Cheers,

Colin

[Jordan]

Factory tool.

Crankcase splitting tool.jpg

[bendik]

I have seen drawings of that factory tool and thopught I'd make something simpler but w the same effect.
I will try the trick w/ tapping the shifting drum tonight, might help

[Duccout]

I had a very difficult job to split my cases as they had never been apart in 50 years and there was a lot of corrosion. I kept spraying the joint with Plus Gas and tapping the points mentioned and gradually got movement in the joint.

Colin

[IanHood]

I had a very similar experience, patience is a virtue - I seem to recall it took 2 days of penetration juice and gentle persuasion.

[themoudie]

Aye bendik and IanH,

Not sure what I posted, as I have forgotten the post's title/reference and hence my use of the "Search" window hasn't brought the post up.

However, I would agree that Nigel's suggested tapping/belting areas method, using a hide mallet, nylon hammer, rubber mallet, shot filled rubber mallet, drifts and a 1lb ball pein hammer, does work. PATIENCE! That is the key, along with copious quantities of acetone, Bulldog BDX release/lubricant and some gentle heat played along the joint from a MAPX blowtorch. BE VERY CAREFUL AS ACETONE/BULLDOG BDX ARE BOTH VERY FLAMMABLE!

The cases that I separated hadn't been parted since being assembled by Mototrans in 1974-75, subjected to 1,400 miles in Edinburgh, on salty, wet roads, chucked in a skip, rescued, then sat in a wet shed, supporting a leaking roof, the acidity of the water producing some spectacular efflorescence of aluminium oxide that bonded the cases together.

DO NOT GET YOUR CASES BLASTED WITH ANY TYPE OF "MEDIA", inspite of what might be said, you will spend hours picking the "shrapnel" from all the oilways and flushing them through, with boiling water and "No Nonesense Detergent" from Screwfix, to remove the impacted crud, or pay somebody to do the same, if you trust them?!? It seemed like a good idea at the time! Vapour blasting! No mention of the glass beads that were added as the vapours were insufficient to remove the aluminium oxide!

Good health, BillR

[bendik]

Thanks
VERY wary of getting engine parts blasted...

[Northracing]

On the topic of blasting oxidized engine cases, agree to stay away from glass beads, sand and most other mediums.

I have had success blasting cases with baking soda, it does a nice job on oxidized surfaces. The baking soda is soluble in water so a good wash with hot soapy water gets the residue out.

[LaceyDucati]

Hi All

I've blasted many sets of cases with aluminium oxide and glass bead and never had any issues over 30 years plus. That said, it's all in the preparation before blasting, masking off all blind holes and oil ways. Then cleaning the cases thoroughly by using an airline (outside) blowing from the bottom of any hole. Then thorough cleaning in hot water (and brushes) and blowing off with an airline (outside) until clean by inspection with an eye glass. If you leave in bushes then they will likely need removing or unseating to remove any driven in media. Not a job for the faint hearted, impatient or the "that should be okay" types Also if you are having a company do the work for you, NEVER assume or even trust them to clean the cases. If you don't have access to an airline and hot water....don't think about blasting cases. All this said, if the cases aren't that bad you can achieve an acceptable finish with chemicals and abrasives like Scotch Brite, even a tooth brush and scouring powders and creams......and many hours of work. But again many of these involve abrasives and the need to clean.

As for "less" abrasive media like soda, I don't think they work on heavily corroded cases (Caused by UK climate). By their very nature if they abrade (however gently), they will be abrasive if it gets in an engine. Just less so, but ideally we don't want any abrasives in an engine however fine!

Just my thoughts after years of doing this, with no issues whatsoever. Not to say I haven't seen some horror shows after inadequate cleaning, some by "Professionals".

Regards Nigel