Aye Paul,
I like the idea of drilling then collapsing the guide but that would certainly mean removing and reshimming the camshaft and bevel drive.
Not necessary and adds to potential problems of the accuracy of concentricity of the guide bore to the valve seat, if your driling isn't square, or you damage the guide bore whilst collapsing the guide into the bore.

Heating the head sufficiently and cooling the drift, as well as applying a lubricant to the guide, both when removing a guide from the head and when inserting a guide into the guide bore will help prevent the galling of the guide bore. Galling or the removal of metal from the valve guide hole bore, the metal removed being attached to the valve guide, means that the valve guide can be unstable in the bore hole and doesn't transmit heat away from the valve stem efficiently. So, the valve doesn't seal against its seat and also can overheat and sieze in the guide in the worst case scenario.
I'm sure shimming does require patience but I was under the impression that it also required knowledge and skill and I'm not sure I have those ....
Now's the time to learn! Everyday is a school day.
Not sure I could use the K-liners as it's a desmo head.
It's a poppet valve cylinder head, the same as all other 4 stroke engine cylinder heads, with poppet valves controlling the flow of gases into and out of the combustion chamber in the cylinder head. K-Liners can be used in many poppet valve guides. The "desmo" part of the operation just changes the closing operation of the poppet valves from using a spring, to a forked rocker arm, controled by a cam, to pull the valve back onto its seat. The valve guides are exactly the same as those used in the wide case, valve spring headed singles.
Good health, Bill