Gear shift pedal removal, help!!

[BDang]

My 125 Sport gear shift pedal lost the locking bolt, but I cannot even wiggle it. How do you remove this thing after the bolt was out? Wedge a big screwdriver into the gap or use a special puller?

Regards,
Brian

[BDang]

BTW, do I need to remove the shift pedal in order to remove the right front engine cover? I'd like to check the lower bevel gear mesh alignment and condition.

Regards,
Brian

[double diamond]

Brian,

You will have to remove the shift lever. You can remove the shift selector housing easily so perhaps this is the easiest solution. The lever should slide off the splined selector shaft if the pinch bolt has been removed. You could remove the inspection cover on the back of the selector case and knock the selector shaft out of the shift lever with a drift. You probably need to clean the selector shaft and shift lever splines so the shift lever will be easier to remove in the future.

Did you ever resolve your exhaust nut tool issue? I had some exhaust nut tools cut on a laser but they were for 250 single size nuts. A tool for a 125 nut would not work on a 125/160 and (apparently) vice-versa. I thought I had an exhaust nut for a 125 somewhere to verify this and to see if the existing CAD drawing could be modified to produce a tool for the 125, but haven’t found the 125 exhaust nut yet.

Matt

[BDang]

Hi Matt,

shift lever's pin bolt was missing when I bought the bike. It doesn't wiggle and I thought someone had welded it, but no evidence of it. OK I will try to remove the shifter with the cover together and then sort things out.

On the EX nut, I was asking if someone here could give me the dimension of the gap between two teeth, and I will have a friend machine a complete 360 circular tool. Drop the muffler off and the tool will loop around the pipe without issue, I hope. Are your tools "radial" or axial tooth, and could you measure the gap between the two teeth?

Thanks,
Brian

[double diamond]

Hi Brian,

I had a look at the exhaust nut tool I have. This is a radial tooth type tool. The measurement between the slots that engage the fin taper from about 3.75mm at the narrowest point to about 5mm. Of course the 125 exhaust nut fin spacing is probably smaller. You should focus on the fin spacing (360 degrees/# of fins) and the width of the fins. The spacing between the fins will be a function of this calculation but doesn’t really matter. It’s the fin spacing, width, I.D. of the circle described by the fins and O.D. of the circle described by the fins that is important.

Matt

[BDang]

Matt,

I asked the ebay seller of his radial tool for the 175 - 450 engine for the width of the nut fin gap, which is 4.2mm or 0.165" which I think is more than enough to clear the fins. The tool will be a one piece 3/8" AL thick, ID=1.4" and OD=2.8", with a 1" x 8" handle. He will mill 20 equally space radial 0.35" x 0.165" rectangle slots (the rectangle slots will create the trapezoidal teeth shape). This will leave 0.35" wide circular ring and I think it will be strong enough.

Regards,
Brian

[Rick]

A cheap battery post puller has worked for me- think I had to do a little filing to get a good grip.
Rick