Systems to Brighten Dim Lights on Alt.Powered models

[DewCatTea-Bob]

NOTICE: ... Well here I now finally have a reply to post, for this question from the other thread.....

____ This question pertains to the use of a pair of full-wave rectifier-blocks to convert the two (NONseparate) AC-outputs of the '28-watt' alternator's (single) lighting & charging power-coil, to DC for charging an added battery, to then run the lights.


" The same goes for your 6v28w alt with the 4 wire conversion, use both positive outputs to go to the battery also to have real bright lights. "

____ First of all here, it seems that due to the words: "to have real bright lights",, I might need to clarify a point concerning the electrical-mods presented within this thread...
There's really no way to make the lights any brighter than the installed battery will let them become !
The only thing that we can do (with the use of an added battery) for these alt.powered lighting-systems, is keep them from getting as dim as they do when-ever the engine-revs -(RPMs) happen to drop too low to sufficiently power the lights. _ And in fact, a battery will actually keep the lights from getting as bright as they otherwise could possibly get (during top RPMs, without a battery) ! - (That's due to the voltage-regulating effect which the batteries cause.)
____ Now to address the main part of the presented question...
The answer is not yes, because the proposed system is meant to make use of EITHER the WHITE wire-lead's output, OR the RED wire-lead's output. _ Ya see while the white-wirelead offers only part of the power-coil's potential power, the red-wirelead offers that same power PLUS all the rest which it's coil has to offer !
(So to use another water analogy,, bothering to use both outputs at once would be sorta like taking 28oz of water and pouring 7oz of it into one cup and then pouring it plus the remaining 21oz into one large glass, (all done in one operation), before then drinking any of it, - [a really unnecessary step!].) _ Also, the involved electrons would then be confused with whether or not to even bother to travel through the white-wirelead.
__ So the bottom-line is that if ya need to run your lights all the time, then ya might as well do the same as 'kmev', (as notable within this same thread), and ignore the WHITE wire-lead !
That way, you can avoid needing the extra rect.block & related wiring, for your system !
__ And if you're going to do that, then ya might instead consider swapping that special -(3 lead-ends) power-coil for another coil that has just (the needed) two lead-ends (for your project). _ (Thus saving that rare power-coil for another project that can use it!)
____ Please ask any further questions, (as I like to offer my suggested details concerning every single wiring-circuit on any DUKE -[OHC-single]!).


DUKE-Cheers,
DCT-Bob