Installing Electrex World Stator System on Diana

[Harvey]

Bob -
Is there a particular condenser you could recommend?

nick

Hi Nick.
The capacitor charges as the points separate.
Its capacity has to match the time it takes, for the mechanical action of the cam and points to separate enough, to prevent the primary current from flowing across.
So the short answer is to use the same capacitor that was designed to be used with the cam/points set-up that you are using.

[Nick]

Bob: Well, the Sebring A/A unit is installed (after disassembly and cleaning), the Diana now runs perfectly, starts easily and the coil doesn't get hot! Thanks again for all your advice. More pics below!

Harvey: Yes, I figured the stock condenser would be the best, but where does one find 50-year old Ducati condensers, and would you really want to use an NOS condenser that old? Prolly not, eh? Anyway, I'm presently running a new automotive condenser and it seems to work fine. Too, with the new (and very expensive!) ignition system/stator on my bike, the stock condenser probably wouldn't be a good match anyway. I was hoping there might be some super-trick condenser your guys knew about that would add another 5 or 10 horsepower to the bike. But thanks for the advice.

[Bevel bob]

Hi Nick, If the points stay in good condition for an acceptable period then the cap must be close to the correct value. I was suffering from plug fouling and wanted to strengthen my battery ignition so i installed a points assist Pazon unit which reduces the points load and makes the cap redundant.It was cheap, It also allows me to set the timing the old way ,make small adjustments to the timing by varying the points gap and has a built in timing light.The plug fouling is still there but hopefully will be solved next week after a Dyno session.

[Nick]

Bob, regarding your plug fouling issues, have you ever had the magnetism of your flywheel checked? Some years ago, when I was living in Southern California, I met a Ducati enthusiast named Jack who had purchased a lot of the tools, parts and other goodies from the Ducati importer when they went belly up. Part of his haul included a factory flywheel charging machine and the gear to measure their magnetism (Gauss meters??). Anyway, turns out my flywheel was weak, and he re-magnetised to the proper value.

Perhaps that would be something to consider with an E.T.-style / magneto ignition.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= Nick ...
" have you ever had the magnetism of your flywheel checked?
turns out my flywheel was weak, and he re-magnetised to the proper value.

____ If there's any interest, here's a link-to one of the earliest (if-not first-ever) threads that brought-up such a related topic.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=23&p=88&hilit=DewCatTea+Bob#p56
__ BTW, B.b's 250 ought-to be referred-to as a 'Mach-I', since his Duke doesn't employ Mark-III/ET.type ignition, but-rather battery-powered ign.type.


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= Bevel bob ...
" The plug fouling is still there but hopefully will be solved next week after a Dyno session. "

____ What's the 'heat-range' of your chosen spark-plug ?
If your fouling-issue doesn't occur during the D.testing, then it's likely that the H-R of your s.plug must be too-cold for your normal-riding.
Have you ever tried a 'BP6HS' NGK-plug ?


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[Bevel bob]

Hi Bob, Yes the current plug is a 6 , i dare not go any hotter , the fouling is least on the cheapest fuel grade, I'm a bit suspicious that my 260 needle jet (without any cross drilling) could be part of the problem.Not been able to get a 265 which i understand IS cross drilled.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= Bevel bob ...
" the fouling is least on the cheapest fuel grade, "

____ No-doubt because lower-octane fuel burns a little hotter.



" I'm a bit suspicious that my 260 needle jet
could be part of the problem "

____ I assume then, that you don't have it's needle-valve left set lifted any higher than it's normal/mid-position !?
__ What's your throttle-slide's cut-away number ?
If you spend much time running under half-throttle, then it's likely that any size under #80 is at-least contributing, if-not the main-cause of your fouling-issue.
Have you ever tried a #100 throttle-slide ?
Have you tested your float-bowl's fuel-valve for excess leakage ?
__ Don't you have any-other carb to experiment with, (before going to the trouble of D.testing) ?


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[Bevel bob]

Hi Bob, When I rebuilt the motor I renewed the carb sllde,needle, and jets to standard but with a main reduced to 110 as recommended by several other well respected sources. I tried an 80 slide but this provoked much spitback and hesitation, I do think that a smaller 27mmSSI would give a better all round performance and a mate has offered to loan one that has been proven to work well on the Moto-Giro in Italy, I also have the offer of Amal and Mikuni carbs but don't want to loose "the look".It also is thought by some that the 29mm carb was a step too far which lost more than it gained, Todays fuel is another factor as its properties are well removed from what carbs were designed to cope with.I intend to have an emission check at the different phases of the carb ,we will see.Another problem 'I'm suffering reversion,or blowback which can cause richness when its sucked back in , could be the non standard exhaust, or late ex valve closure.